One of the jewels of Peak limestone, a fine imposing south-facing wall with a great set of climbs on superb pocketed rock. Unfortunately large sections of the less steep rock are unpleasantly grassy and inevitably the best of the routes are tending to become rather polished. The all-time classics of The Thorn, The Eliminate, The Beest, Central Wall and The Black Grub compare with the best in the area; the other climbs here are well worth doing for the unusual pocketed nature of the climbing - great practice for things Continental.
Routes
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32 trad routes (VD...E5) 5 sport routes (7b...8a+) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents | |||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| The West Wall The left-hand side of the main section of the cliff is a little disappointing at first acquaintance... |
5 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 12 mins |
290 | |
| Ivy Gash This section is the showpiece of the crag with a set of fine intricate climbs which take complex... |
15 | Trad and Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Level 12 mins |
293 | |
| Central Wall & Bertram's Chimney The right-hand side of the cliff has some worthwhile climbs, though the best of these are quite... |
14 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 15 mins |
294 | |
| The Girdles There are three very good girdles of Beeston Tor on offer that make the most of the exposure.... |
3 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 15 mins |
297 | |
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