The meandering and deeply-incised valley of the River Dove is one of the most popular tourist attractions in the whole of the Peak. There are rocky outcrops down the whole length of the valley, many of which are clearly visible to the tourist hoards and others that are well-hidden from view. Unfortunately the low-lying and sunny aspect of much of the rock means that the vegetation can be rampant, especially in high summer. The best (and most popular) of the climbs stay clean but venture from these and a degree of jungle-bashing may be in order, with steep grassy exits being perhaps the choicest of the various problems that the greenery presents.
Routes
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116 trad routes (VD...A2) 9 sport routes (6b+...8a) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents | |||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| Baley Buttress The first piece of decent rock on the east bank of the river is a sheltered, south-facing tower of... |
6 | Trad |
Sun from mid-morning |
Uphill 15 mins |
299 | |
| Ravens Tor A fine steep cliff, northeast-facing and seamed by a selection of cracks and grooves, giving some... |
17 | Trad |
Morning sun |
Uphill 20 mins |
301 | |
| Dove Holes The twinned sockets provide one of the Peak's more unusual climbing venues - a pair of water-worn... |
10 | Trad |
No sun |
Level 20 mins |
Seepage Dry in the Rain | 304 |
| Ilam Rock The finest pinnacle in the valley is in a dramatic setting, leaning out over the river and the... |
8 | Trad |
Sun and shade |
Level 25 mins |
Dry in the Rain | 306 |
| Pickering Pinnacle Pickering Pinnacle is the slender, grassy tower opposite Ilam Rock. It offers some good climbing on... |
11 | Trad |
Sun and shade |
Up and down 25 mins |
309 | |
| Thunderball A sunny wall in a very secluded setting. Apart from Thunderball, the routes see zero traffic -... |
6 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Up and down 25 mins |
310 | |
| The Watchblock One of the best walls in Dovedale is the superb Watchblock Buttress, home to the classic... |
7 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Up and down 25 mins |
311 | |
| Reynard's Arch A popular attraction, a least since all the trees that used to hide it were cut down. There is a... |
6 | Sport |
No sun |
Up and down 25 mins |
Seepage Dry in the Rain Windy | 312 |
| Campanile Pinnacle The tower has a grassy front face of little interest, its right side has better rock. The most... |
3 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 30 mins |
314 | |
| Silicon Wall Area In the middle of the pinnacles are two small walls with a set of good pitches on clean rock. |
10 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 30 mins |
315 | |
| The John Peel Wall The tallest and best rock at Tissington Spires is the John Peel Wall. Most of the routes start in... |
14 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Up and down 30 mins |
316 | |
| South Gully Buttress The last of the Tissington Spires is known as South Gully Buttress. The routes described here vary... |
5 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Up and down 30 mins |
318 | |
| Dovedale Church Dovedale Church East Face has a great selection of routes ranging from the amiable VS 4c of Snakes... |
23 | Trad |
Sun and shade |
Level 35 mins |
Seepage | 320 |
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