DOVEDALE


The meandering and deeply-incised valley of the River Dove is one of the most popular tourist attractions in the whole of the Peak. There are rocky outcrops down the whole length of the valley, many of which are clearly visible to the tourist hoards and others that are well-hidden from view. Unfortunately the low-lying and sunny aspect of much of the rock means that the vegetation can be rampant, especially in high summer. The best (and most popular) of the climbs stay clean but venture from these and a degree of jungle-bashing may be in order, with steep grassy exits being perhaps the choicest of the various problems that the greenery presents.

Routes

116 trad routes (VD...A2)
9 sport routes (6b+...8a)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Baley Buttress
The first piece of decent rock on the east bank of the river is a sheltered, south-facing tower of...
6
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

15 mins

sheltered
299
Ravens Tor
A fine steep cliff, northeast-facing and seamed by a selection of cracks and grooves, giving some...
17
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill

20 mins

sheltered
301
Dove Holes
The twinned sockets provide one of the Peak's more unusual climbing venues - a pair of water-worn...
10
Trad
No sun
Level

20 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
304
Ilam Rock
The finest pinnacle in the valley is in a dramatic setting, leaning out over the river and the...
8
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

25 mins

Dry in the Rain
sheltered
306
Pickering Pinnacle
Pickering Pinnacle is the slender, grassy tower opposite Ilam Rock. It offers some good climbing on...
11
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and down

25 mins

sheltered
309
Thunderball
A sunny wall in a very secluded setting. Apart from Thunderball, the routes see zero traffic -...
6
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and down

25 mins

sheltered
310
The Watchblock
One of the best walls in Dovedale is the superb Watchblock Buttress, home to the classic...
7
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and down

25 mins

sheltered
311
Reynard's Arch
A popular attraction, a least since all the trees that used to hide it were cut down. There is a...
6
Sport
No sun
Up and down

25 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
312
Campanile Pinnacle
The tower has a grassy front face of little interest, its right side has better rock. The most...
3
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

30 mins

sheltered
314
Silicon Wall Area
In the middle of the pinnacles are two small walls with a set of good pitches on clean rock.
10
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

30 mins

sheltered
315
The John Peel Wall
The tallest and best rock at Tissington Spires is the John Peel Wall. Most of the routes start in...
14
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and down

30 mins

sheltered
316
South Gully Buttress
The last of the Tissington Spires is known as South Gully Buttress. The routes described here vary...
5
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and down

30 mins

sheltered
318
Dovedale Church
Dovedale Church East Face has a great selection of routes ranging from the amiable VS 4c of Snakes...
23
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

35 mins

Seepage
sheltered
320
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  • Latest Comments

    For DOVEDALE

    Claw Left-hand
    "Had been saving this route for years as it always seems to be wet. Oh my word wh..." 29/May

    Venery
    "Good crack climbing HVS 5a**" 17/Nov

    Simeon
    "Don't know about "low in the grade", I'd put it high in the grade." 03/Oct

    Aquarius
    "Really good route but wish I had read the comments about the vertical choss fini..." 19/Aug

    Southern Rib
    "Classic Peak Limestone HVS 5b (both pitches)" 05/Jul

    The Gladiator
    "The route is correct in the Rockfax guide with Adrian's slight re-wording probab..." 10/Jun

    Thunderball
    "Getting to the route is a definite pain (just getting up to the Watchblock is ba..." 06/Jun

    The Claw
    ""Battle" seems an appropriate verb. Unusual climbing - felt like gris..." 10/Oct

    The Claw
    "Led it in one. A good honest tussle up to the optional stance but I didn't enjoy..." 02/Aug

    Nancy Whisky
    "Worth 2 stars? I think so. E2? Probably not, but it's high in the grade. Certain..." 25/Jul

    Nancy Whisky
    "Good route but hard for the grade: I've certainly done easier E2s" 05/Jul

    Adjudicator Wall
    "the best route in the dale and to date one of the most enjoyable climbs i've lea..." 19/May

    Ten Craters of Wisdom
    "Agree with the last comment, 5a for 1 move but 4a/b for the rest. I'd still give..." 27/Mar

    Southern Rib
    "Hardest HVS I've done in yonks, wasn't quite prepared for what to expect. Both p..." 29/Sep

    Simeon Direct
    "Slightly spoilt by the undignified grovel to reach the base of the route (typica..." 16/Aug

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