The meandering and deeply-incised valley of the River Dove is one of the most popular tourist attractions in the whole of the Peak. There are rocky outcrops down the whole length of the valley, many of which are clearly visible to the tourist hoards and others that are well-hidden from view. Unfortunately the low-lying and sunny aspect of much of the rock means that the vegetation can be rampant, especially in high summer. The best (and most popular) of the climbs stay clean but venture from these and a degree of jungle-bashing may be in order, with steep grassy exits being perhaps the choicest of the various problems that the greenery presents.

Photo: Tissington Spires © ROCKFAX

ROUTES

101 trad routes (VD...E6) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents

Buttress (click for routes)	No. of Routes	Route Type	Sunshine or shade	Approach walk	Other	Page
Ravens Tor A fine steep cliff, east facing and seamed by a good selection of cracks and grooves, giving some...	16			20 mins		188
Baley Buttress The first piece of decent rock on the left bank of the river is a sheletered tower, south facing...	5			20 mins		189
Dove Holes The twinned sockets provide one of the Peak’s more unusual climbing venues, a pair of water-worn...	10			25 mins		190
Ilam Rock The finest pinnacle in the valley and in a most dramatic setting, as it leans out over the river...	7			30 mins		191
Pickering Pinnacle Pickering Pinnacle is the slender grassy tower opposite Ilam Rock. It offers some good climbing on...	10			30 mins		192
Watchblock Area The impressive barrel-shaped buttress of the Watchblock, with its natural arch at its left-hand...	12			35 mins		193
Tissington Spires A spectacular selection of towers and spires and home to a fine set of routes. A few years back the...	27			40 mins		194
Dovedale Church A geological curio; two elongated ridges (or is it four conjoined pinnacles?) pierced by a pair of...	18			40 mins		198
		What do these symbols mean?

Nancy Whisky
"Worth 2 stars? I think so. E2? Probably not, but it's high in the grade. Certain..." 25/Jul

Nancy Whisky
"Good route but hard for the grade: I've certainly done easier E2s" 05/Jul

Adjudicator Wall
"the best route in the dale and to date one of the most enjoyable climbs i've lea..." 19/May

Ten Craters of Wisdom
"Agree with the last comment, 5a for 1 move but 4a/b for the rest. I'd still give..." 27/Mar

Southern Rib
"Hardest HVS I've done in yonks, wasn't quite prepared for what to expect. Both p..." 29/Sep

Simeon Direct
"Slightly spoilt by the undignified grovel to reach the base of the route (typica..." 16/Aug

Ten Craters of Wisdom
"A good route, though most of the craters have flowers growing in them. Mostly 4a..." 10/Aug

Brutus
"doh, 'root'" 15/Jul

Venery
"Climbed and cleaned on 27th June 09 and now a nice line with a particulalry good..." 28/Jun

Search for comments