Staden is the Peak quarry that manages to break the well-known golden rule of “all Peak quarries are loose grotty holes filled with mediocre bolt routes”. Here, at least on the described routes, the rock is solid, the setting is pleasant and many of the routes are traditional classics in the ‘orange’ spot zone. Good technique and neat footwork will pay better dividends here than climbing-wall-bred brutality!
Routes
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34 trad routes (HS...E6) 27 sport routes (6a...7c+) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents |        | ||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| Craig-y-Biceps This north-facing crag is unclimbable for much of the year. It is inclined to be vegetated as it... |
30 | Sport |
No sun |
Uphill 1 min |
Seepage | 138 |
| A Game of Chess The first section described in the main quarry is a short face on the left of the long back wall.... |
8 | Trad |
No sun |
Level 6 mins |
Restricted Access | 140 |
| Bicycle Repair Man A fine slab capped by a substantial tree, with another at its base. It is split by two prominent... |
9 | Trad |
Sun and shade |
Up and down 0 mins |
Windy | 141 |
| Joint Effort Wall The showpiece of the quarry is this tall and rugged slab of dark rock. The right-hand side is... |
14 | Trad |
No sun |
Level 6 mins |
Restricted Access | 142 |
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