STADEN QUARRY


Staden is the Peak quarry that manages to break the well-known golden rule of “all Peak quarries are loose grotty holes filled with mediocre bolt routes”. Here, at least on the described routes, the rock is solid, the setting is pleasant and many of the routes are traditional classics in the ‘orange’ spot zone. Good technique and neat footwork will pay better dividends here than climbing-wall-bred brutality!

Routes

34 trad routes (HS...E6)
27 sport routes (?...?)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Craig-y-Biceps
This north-facing crag is unclimbable for much of the year. It is inclined to be vegetated as it...
30
Sport
No sun
Uphill

1 min

Seepage
sheltered
138
A Game of Chess
The first section described in the main quarry is a short face on the left of the long back wall....
8
Trad
No sun
Level

6 mins

sheltered
Restricted Access
140
Bicycle Repair Man
A fine slab capped by a substantial tree, with another at its base. It is split by two prominent...
9
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and down

0 mins

141
Joint Effort Wall
The showpiece of the quarry is this tall and rugged slab of dark rock. The right-hand side is...
14
Trad
No sun
Level

6 mins

sheltered
Restricted Access
142
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