SIERRA DE TOIX


The Sierra de Toix forms an impressive ridge overlooking Calpe to the north, and Benidorm to the south. The rock outcrops on the ridge are virtually continuous but only certain sections have been found worthy of development. In the past Toix has been a little over-sold and some people have left, disappointed after their week's stay, believing it to be the best climbing in the area. Although not the best it does have an important role in climbing in the Costa Blanca area. The crags are extremely accessible, with many good routes especially in the easier grades, and it will probably be visited at least once by most teams who come out here.

Routes

222 sport routes (3...8a+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Toix North
The northern side of the Toix Ridge is clearly visible from Calpe and is continuous for most of the...
10
Sport
No sun
Uphill

2 mins

240
Toix Oeste
The most popular climbing on the Sierra de Toix is found at Toix Oeste. The routes here are one of...
31
Sport
Sun from mid-morning
Up and down

2 mins

292
Toix Far Oeste
To the right of the main Toix Oeste cliff is a gully, and beyond this is a short wall with a number...
27
Sport
Sun from mid-morning
Downhill

4 mins

sheltered
296
Toix Placa
This extensive wall has a number of popular low-grade routes. Some of them cross sections of...
37
Sport
Sun from mid-morning
Up and down

10 mins

298
Toix TV - Amphitheatre
Toix TV is the huge tufa-laced amphitheatre perched at the very top of the Toix ridge.
12
Sport
Sun from mid-morning
Up and down

20 mins

sheltered
302
Toix TV - Tropical Dreams
A short wall in an lovely position, catching all the sun going. The routes are pleasant and there...
19
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

20 mins

304
The Toix Ridge
A fun and straightforward ridge is preceded by a long sport route. This is a good route to get into...
1
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and down

0 mins

307
Raco Del Corv
Below Toix Oeste, a magnificent wall of exotic rock rises out of the sea. This is home to several...
10
Trad and Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

5 mins

sheltered
309
Magical Mystery Tour
The southern side of the Toix headland forms a continuous sea-cliff up to 80m high. One classic...
12
Trad and Sport
Sun from mid-morning
Up and down

20 mins

Abseil
Seepage
310
Pirates of the Caribbean
The most developed section of the Toix Sea Cliffs is the huge and spectacular Pirates of the...
21
Sport
Sun from mid-morning
Up and down

20 mins

Abseil
Seepage
312
Toix Este
The left-hand end of the cliff has been developed with some longer easy routes, believed to be the...
43
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

6 mins

sheltered
314
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  • Access Issues for Costa Blanca


  • Latest Comments

    For SIERRA DE TOIX

    4 You
    "Start is squeezed between two adjacent routes on non obvious holds, a bit artifi..." 30/Nov

    Monkey Wall
    "Fun climbing threw the hueco chimney with sufficiant bolts (first a little bit h..." 24/Nov

    Carlos
    "Pitch 1 is squeezed between Blue on one side, Red on 'tother; but betweenthere i..." 19/Nov

    The Toix Ridge
    "now and then dubious relais and sometimes long distances between bolts (on the e..." 16/Nov

    Jan
    "Pleasant and quite sustained. It can be done on a 60m rope if you angle your abs..." 21/Oct

    Lofi
    "Communication is impossible after the first pitch. If you are not used to moves ..." 22/Aug

    Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour
    "Last week I rebolted the complete route with stainless bolts, so the climb is pr..." 07/May

    Anna Maria la Pirata con Cojones
    "This is a 7c. It has never been 7c+. I am the first ascender and Paul Thorburn..." 29/Mar

    Cilber
    "Changed from 5+ * to 5+ **, 0% of 2 votes for **" 06/Mar

    Coming back to Life
    "I agree with this being upgraded to 6c, it's hard and scary. I had a brown trous..." 06/Mar

    Painted Wall
    "Gets harder and harder with height. Brilliant positions." 01/Feb

    Vía Missing Link
    "It isn't clear where to traverse. Down at the water (like the line in the topo) ..." 11/Jan

    Monkey Wall
    "Good route but 2 stars, not 3. There are bolts in the hueco filled "chimne..." 21/Nov

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