CHEE DALE UPPER


The upper area of Chee Dale contains many fine buttresses lining the sides of the river Wye. The majority of the climbing is sport routes although there are still plenty of trad routes available including classics like Sirplum, Mad Dogs and Englishmen and Spizz Energy. The main crags of Plum Buttress, The Embankment and Two Tier remain popular but the other walls have fallen a little bit off the tick list in recent years. In dry and hot summers though the place comes alive again as a welcome retreat from the heat, especially on the south bank. The majority of the quality climbing is in the mid-to-upper grades although there is some easier sport to be found in Blackwell Halt and on Blatant Buttress.

Approach
As the A6 from Bakewell to Buxton drops down the hill towards the River Wye, there is a large lay-by at Topley Pike overlooking the western end of Chee Dale. Locate a gate at the uphill end of the lay-by and skirt across the top of the steep slope to reach a path which cuts back left down Old Dale underneath the slope (do not go directly up or down the steep slope). At the bottom, turn right onto the old railway (or straight on for Blackwell Halt) and follow the track to the various buttresses.

Conditions
Much of Chee Dale Upper takes a long time to dry out, and with the exception of the Embankment, the Sidings and Blackwell Halt - three possible winter-sun venues - a good spell of dry weather is required before the season can really begin. In autumn the walls can remain dry for several weeks after the weather has closed in. In the hotter months, shade can be found on most of the buttresses, with only the Sidings and Blackwell Halt exposed to any afternoon sun. The high valley walls give good shelter from any wind.

Routes

152 trad routes (VD...D)
322 sport routes (4c...8b+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Blatant Buttress
This well-named little buttress is a bit too close to the active railway line for comfort, although...
18
Sport
Early morning sun
Downhill

15 mins

sheltered
Restricted Access
Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty...
23
Sport
Early morning sun
Downhill

15 mins

sheltered
The Sidings
Although not one of Cheedale's premier venues, this is a compact buttress with short and technical...
19
Sport
Early morning sun
Downhill

20 mins

sheltered
The Embankment
The Embankment was transformed during the late '80s into the first of the true sport crags in the...
34
Sport
Early morning sun
Downhill

20 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Max Wall
This popular buttress has experienced several waves of activity over the years to leave a good wall...
29
Sport
Early morning sun
Downhill

20 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
The Nook
A small buttress with some steep and hard neglected sport routes that are not often in condition.
10
Sport
Early morning sun
Downhill

25 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Nettle Buttress
The name doesn't inspire, but the buttress is worth a visit in hot weather. Summer Wine is the...
28
Sport
Early morning sun
Downhill

25 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Two Tier - Left
The tall left-hand side of Two Tier Buttress contains some great long sport routes. The far...
17
Sport
Early morning sun
Up and down

20 mins

Seepage
sheltered
Two Tier - Centre
This wall probably contains the best quality rock in the Dale; clean and compact with only a few...
29
Sport
Early morning sun
Up and down

20 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Two Tier - Upper
This hanging garden of exposure is one of only two buttresses in the Peak which require an abseil...
17
Sport
Early morning sun
Up and down

30 mins

Abseil
Seepage
sheltered
Two Tier - Secteur Nadin
A tall buttress right of the bulk of Two Tier which takes its name from its main developer in the...
17
Sport
Early morning sun
Up and down

20 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Long Wall
Long Wall provides four distinct sections. On the left is an area which takes a lot of seepage...
36
Sport
Early morning sun
Up and down

20 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Runyon's Corner
This is not the best sector in Chee Dale but it does have a few pleasant little routes and is in a...
26
Sport
Early morning sun
Up and down

20 mins

Seepage
sheltered
Moving Buttress
This fine wall stands proudly above the railway and was one of the first walls in the Dale to be...
35
Trad and Sport
Early morning sun
Up and down

20 mins

The Lifts
The Lifts have become less fashionable of late and parts are slowly retreating behind the ivy....
24
Trad and Sport
Early morning sun
Up and down

15 mins

Plum Buttress
A magnificent buttress which dominates the western end of the Dale and has a small set of top-notch...
17
Trad
Early morning sun
Up and down

15 mins

Seepage
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