PUIG CAMPANA


As you drive up and down the coastline, there is one impressive bit of rock which stands high above all the other impressive bits of rock, the 1400m high Puig Campana above the village of Finestrat. Along with the Peñon d'Ifach, this mountain has been a focus of climbing in the Costa Blanca since the 1960s. However owing to the long approach walks, and the existence of other significantly more accessible crags, Puig Campana hasn't been developed nearly as much as it deserves. Despite this it is still home to some superb and important routes, which will provide many memorable days of climbing for those into long traditionally protected climbs. The actual climbing is seldom hard, except on the newer routes. The three main classics on the south face, Espolón Central, Diedro Gallego and Diedro Magicos, and El Diamante plus Espolón Finestrat on the Aguja Encantada, are the only routes on which you are likely to have company.

Routes

33 sport routes (2+...7b+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Aguja Encantada
The West Face of Puig Campana is complex area with many pinnacles and walls. By far the most...
12
Trad and Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

1 min

Espolón Central
One of the best-known rock-features of the Costa Blanca is the long slender ridge of Espolón...
4
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

1 min

Vía Julia Pillar
The route Espolón Central avoids much of the steep lower section of the pillar. This is tackled by...
8
Trad and Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

1 min

Diedros Mágicos Area
The right-hand side of the huge south face contains the classic long groove of Magic Corners and...
9
Trad and Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

1 min

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