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PUIG CAMPANA

[Starting the hour or so walk up to the South Face of the Puig Campana on the Costa Blanca, 7 kb]As you drive up and down the coastline, there is one impressive bit of rock which stands high above all the other impressive bits of rock, the 1400m high Puig Campana above the village of Finestrat. Along with the Peñon d'Ifach, this mountain has been a focus of climbing in the Costa Blanca since the 1960s. However owing to the long approach walks, and the existence of other significantly more accessible crags, Puig Campana hasn't been developed nearly as much as it deserves. Despite this it is still home to some superb and important routes, which will provide many memorable days of climbing for those into long traditionally protected climbs. The actual climbing is seldom hard, except on the newer routes. The three main classics on the south face, Espolón Central, Diedro Gallego and Diedro Magicos, and El Diamante plus Espolón Finestrat on the Aguja Encantada, are the only routes on which you are likely to have company.

Photo: Starting the hour or so walk up to the South Face of the Puig Campana on the Costa Blanca © Chris Craggs

ROUTES

27 sport routes (4+...7b+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Agulla Encantada
The West Face of Puig Campana is complex area with many pinnacles and walls. By far the most...
11 trad+sport sun from mid-morning uphill
30 mins
windy186
South Face - Espolon Central Are
The huge south face is a massive and complex bit of rock. There are routes all over it, only the...
10 trad+sport lots of sun! uphill
50 mins
windy188
Diedre Magicos Area
The right-hand side of the huge south face contains the classic long groove of ‘Magic Corners' and...
6 trad+sport lots of sun! uphill
60 mins
windy192
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Latest Comments
PUIG CAMPANA
Espolón Central
"Had a great day on the route following the new downloaded topo available from ro..." 03/Apr top50

Espolón Central Directa
"We made it 05/09 The information about ledge in the internet are a little bit c..." 14/May

Espolón de Finestrat
"You can miss out the second and third pitches by going straight up the groove of..." 13/Mar

Espolón Central
"Nice route, allow time for the decent, it could be very tricky to follow in the ..." 07/Mar top50

Vía Julia
"Very enjoyable route. If you haven´t done Espolon Central before it is worth car..." 24/Jan

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