On first acquaintance this north-facing crag on the banks of the river Derwent does not appear as an inviting prospect but a closer inspection reveals much potential with a good range of climbs in the VS to E2 grades. The cleaner left-hand end of the crag contains several classics and dotted around the rest of the crag are many interesting climbs which follow the numerous groove lines or weave about to bypass the roofs and overhangs with which the place abounds.
Routes
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53 trad routes (VS...E7) 2 sport routes (7a+...7c) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents | |||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| Lime Street Area The left side of Willersley has some of the best lines around and the trees here are less... |
24 | Trad |
No sun |
Level 5 mins |
Restricted Access | 374 |
| Garroter Area The central section of the cliff has a fine set of powerful groove-lines, and some open faces. Once... |
9 | Trad |
No sun |
Level 5 mins |
Restricted Access | 378 |
| Pothole Wall No description as yet. |
3 | Trad |
No sun |
Level 5 mins |
379 | |
| Gangue Grooves Just to the right of Pothole Wall is Gangue Grooves another cracker, devious and continually... |
3 | Trad |
No sun |
Level 5 mins |
Restricted Access | 380 |
| Boomerang Area The right-hand side of the cliff has some good hard routes, as well as the elegant but tired line... |
8 | Trad |
No sun |
Level 5 mins |
Dry in the Rain Restricted Access | 381 |
| Cucumber Groove The far right-hand side of the cliff has another set of good lines in the form of a series of... |
8 | Trad |
No sun |
Level 5 mins |
Restricted Access | 382 |
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