CAWDOR QUARRY


This long-abandoned quarry is clearly visible, rising above the trees behind Matlock, when driving into the town from the north. There are around 70 climbs here now, mostly courtesy of Gary Gibson, on steep walls up to 25m high. The climbing is steep and technical and generally the routes are well-bolted. Judging by the size of the trees that that grow up close to the face the quarry has been abandoned for over 40 years but despite this, the cliff has not weathered well and much loose rock remains. The worst of this has been removed but be aware of the possibility of falling rock at all times.

Routes

65 sport routes (4...7a+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Boffin Wall
The first routes are almost at the base of the steep slope descended on the approach to the cliff.
11
Sport
No sun
Downhill

2 mins

Seepage
sheltered
12
Rusty Wall
After a gap of 12m, the routes begin again.
16
Sport
No sun
Downhill

3 mins

Seepage
sheltered
13
Porn Wall
Named after the mags found at the base of the wall. Donít bother looking - they have all gone!
13
Sport
No sun
Downhill

3 mins

Seepage
sheltered
14
Fisherman's Wall
The final section of the wall starts 10m further right and runs out to a point just beyond the...
25
Sport
No sun
Downhill

4 mins

Seepage
sheltered
15
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  • Latest Comments

    For CAWDOR QUARRY

    Yours Truly
    "Some nice moves - but the rock feels worryingly loose in places. Spaced bolts, s..." 04/Sep

    Family Ties
    "The route may have been rebolted but it remains rather run out and it's in an ap..." 15/Jul

    Yours Truly
    "What a bag of ....! Like climbing vertical scree." 31/May

    Weakling
    "Rebolted with new stainless gear and new belay added." 31/May

    Feeding Frenzy
    "could you stop being so subtle fiend. Say what's on your mind..What are you elud..." 06/Aug

    Feeding Frenzy
    "Absolute wank. Eliminate rubbish up dirty and loose rock with rusty bolts." 06/Aug

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