This long-abandoned quarry is clearly visible, rising above the trees behind Matlock, when driving into the town from the north. There are around 70 climbs here now, mostly courtesy of Gary Gibson, on steep walls up to 25m high. The climbing is steep and technical and generally the routes are well-bolted. Judging by the size of the trees that that grow up close to the face the quarry has been abandoned for over 40 years but despite this, the cliff has not weathered well and much loose rock remains. The worst of this has been removed but be aware of the possibility of falling rock at all times.
Routes
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65 sport routes (4...7a+) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents |        | ||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| Boffin Wall The first routes are almost at the base of the steep slope descended on the approach to the cliff. |
11 | Sport |
No sun |
Downhill 2 mins |
Seepage | 12 |
| Rusty Wall After a gap of 12m, the routes begin again. |
16 | Sport |
No sun |
Downhill 3 mins |
Seepage | 13 |
| Porn Wall Named after the mags found at the base of the wall. Don’t bother looking - they have all gone! |
13 | Sport |
No sun |
Downhill 3 mins |
Seepage | 14 |
| Fisherman's Wall The final section of the wall starts 10m further right and runs out to a point just beyond the... |
25 | Sport |
No sun |
Downhill 4 mins |
Seepage | 15 |
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