A magnificent steep crag with many superb routes. Much of the climbing is in the higher grades but there are a few worthy routes at about E1 level. Above that the quantity and quality increases reaching a peak with the magnificent Northern Lights - 9a. The popular climbing is on the sport routes although there are plenty of great trad routes as well. The crag faces east and receives the sun in the morning which can make it a handy hot summer venue.

Photo: Central Wall © ROCKFAX

ROUTES

27 trad routes (E2...E7) 79 sport routes (3...9a) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents

Buttress (click for routes)	No. of Routes	Route Type	Sunshine or shade	Approach walk	Other	Page
South Face This is the side of the crag facing the village of Kilnsey. To the left of South Buttress capped by...	6			2 mins		-
Directissima Area The huge umbella of Kilnseys main overhang shelters some of Yorkshires great pitches. The lower...	30			1 min		262
The Bulge Area The dominating bulge of Ecstacy and the corner of Balas are the main features of this wall. In...	13			1 min		264
Dihedral Wall Area The distinct overlap of Dihedral Wall itself and the wall to its right provide for most tastes,...	15			1 min		265
Biological Need Area The subtly-featured compact grey rock of the right-hand walls provide some extremely sustained and...	14			1 min		266
Central Wall The towering vertical wall of magnificent grey and white streaked limestone is broken only by some...	4			2 mins		267
North Buttress The leaning mass of Kilnsey’s North Buttress is one of the UK’s most impressive crags. The...	10			2 mins		268
Grooved Arete Area The final buttress at Kilnsey is often overlooked in favour of its better known near neighbours....	14			2 mins		270
		What do these symbols mean?

Sticky Wicket
"I did this after Frankie and found it OK, easier for the tall I think which mayb..." 12/Sep

The Last Gasp Finish
"The slight rest in the niche is hands off." 29/Aug

Quiet Flight
"Air rage 7c+ goes direct through the roof where QF goes left." 26/Aug

Comedy
"Ascended the day before yesterday by myself (age 35) after much hanging about. W..." 12/Aug

Tragedy
"Hard power endurance. To a poor rest then some sapping moves to a run out finish..." 12/Aug

Little Ernie
"Now fully bolted. Told that holds have come off above the break after the boulde..." 12/Aug

Alternative
"Very loose boulder between third and fourth bolt. Temping to use as hand hold, b..." 09/Aug

No More Jumping to Conclusions
"well worth doing, barely inferior too frankie. nice bit of rock on the main sec..." 30/Jul

Slab Culture
"As of July '09, and until I or someone else gets to it, be very very wary of the..." 27/Jul

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