KILNSEY


The unmistakable leaning bulk of Kilnsey Crag is one of the UK's major limestone cliffs. Its soaring grooves, leaning walls and undercut starts providing the ingredients for a set of superlative high end sport climbs and challenging trad routes. Much of the sport climbing is stamina based due to the height of the cliff, whilst the majority of the quality trad climbs are sustained, fairly adventurous and tackle many of Kilnsey's stunning natural lines. All of the best routes are in the higher grades and, for the most part, are on good rock although some sections need care. The sport routes are well equipped and get plenty of traffic whilst the less popular trad climbs see far less attention and can be a bit dirty and may need a clean before an ascent.

Routes

56 trad routes (E1...E8)
114 sport routes (3...9a)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
South Buttress
The buttress has a half dozen low grade sport lines but be aware that this is also a popular spot...
6
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

2 mins

sheltered
Directissima Area
The huge limestone umbrella of Kilnsey's Main Overhang shelters some great pitches. It also has a...
36
Trad and Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

2 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
The Bulge Area
The dominating corner of The Bulge (AKA Let Them Eat Jelly Beans) is the main feature of this wall....
24
Trad and Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

3 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Dihedral Wall Area
The distinctive left-curving overlap of Dihedral Wall, the appealing corner of Balas and the walls...
18
Trad and Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

1 min

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Optional Extra Area
A well featured section of the crag that is home to a number of popular grade 7s and some harder...
17
Trad and Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

3 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Biological Need Area
A subtly-featured and compact grey wall. The area has some extremely sustained and fingery...
14
Trad and Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

4 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Central Wall
A huge, vertical wall of grey limestone is flanked by the long corner of The Diedre and the...
11
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill

4 mins

Seepage
sheltered
The North Buttress
The leaning mass of Kilnsey's North Buttress is one of the UKs most impressive crags. This...
14
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

4 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Subculture Area
A popular area that is dominated by the fantastic left-leading line of The Overlap. The majority of...
30
Trad and Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

5 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
What do these symbols mean?
  • Latest Comments

    For KILNSEY

    Exodus
    "Changed from E8 6c to E7 6c, no votes" 04/Dec

    Quiet Flight
    "Anybody been on Air Rage recently - the direct finish to Quite Flight. Seemed na..." 25/Jun

    The Yorkshire Ripper
    "Fully rebolted now" 17/Aug

    Another Clip in the Wall
    "nice route up to the second bolt, then descends into contrived sharp moves and o..." 01/Aug

    Floccinaucinihilipilificatious
    "Re-bolted today. Few cool moves. One to do if you have done everything else. (Or..." 18/Jul

    Pantomime
    "Harder move than its neighbour but less sustained in its upper section. I'm havi..." 11/Jul

    The Diedre
    "Line in rockfax is wrong. From belay you move right then back left. Also higher ..." 10/Jul top50

    Quiet Flight
    "underrated, and better than it looks on fine rock with interesting climbing for ..." 13/Jun

    The Diedre
    "Currently bone dry. A few ascents would clean it up nicely. Direct up the Diedre..." 22/May top50

    Smooth Torquer
    "Correction, a million miles from 8a, only 48 miles from 7b." 21/May

    The Directissima
    "If you werent impressed you obviously only went to the first lower off." 16/Sep top50

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