Valldemossa is an accessible and popular crag that has a good selection of fine middle grade routes. The crags are delightfully positioned high above the village of Port d'Valldemossa with great views over the village and to the sea beyond. After rain you get a splendid view of the magnificent waterfall that cascades down the hillside above the port. The only drawback to this idyllic setting is the proximity of the road, a situation made a bit worse by the fact that it is also a surprisingly busy road. Care is needed when belaying to avoid being whisked away by a speeding lorry. This proximity of the crag to your own parked car does make Valldemossa a good airport day crag, it being very easy to keep an eye on car and gear. The climbing is spread over four main buttresses which vary from steep slabs to vertical walls. The main crag has its famous roof over the road, an excellent popular slab with some honeycomb features in the middle, and some interesting scooped runnels on the left-hand side. The Roadside Buttress is less interesting and also the most prone to the sudden appearance of speeding cars. Up above the main crag are two considerably more isolated areas that contain some superb longer routes, some poor short ones and one stunning 7b.

Photo: Average (6b+) on Valldemossa Upper Crag on Mallorca © Mark Glaister

ROUTES

51 sport routes (4...7c) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents

Buttress (click for routes)	No. of Routes	Route Type	Sunshine or shade	Approach walk	Other	Page
Sector Waikiki A fine buttress in a magnificent position above the main crag. It is worth the walk up just to look...	6			2 mins		57
Roadside Buttress This is the short wall back up the road which you almost certainly drove past without noticing....	9			0 mins		57
Valldemossa Main The main wall has some of the best and most popular climbing at Valldemossa. It consists of a fine...	17			0 mins		58
Valldemossa Upper By complete contrast the Upper Crag is strangely isolated compared to the hullabaloo below. The...	22			2 mins		59
		What do these symbols mean?

Kirsten
"Hard but nice, partially polished." 06/Dec

Kirsten II
"Replaced all the old spits and the anchor on that route. Still a little bit spac..." 09/Nov

Chimenea
"Una ruta guapísima con unas vistas geniales. Bastante larga." 21/Jun

Suphi
"Stunning route. Very varied." 27/Jan

Average
"Again another verdonesque french style route : slabby, technical and then a few ..." 17/Dec

Search for comments