VALLDEMOSSA


Valldemossa is an accessible and popular crag that has a good selection of fine middle grade routes. The crags are delightfully positioned high above the village of Port d'Valldemossa with great views over the village and to the sea beyond. After rain you get a splendid view of the magnificent waterfall that cascades down the hillside above the port. The only drawback to this idyllic setting is the proximity of the road, a situation made a bit worse by the fact that it is also a surprisingly busy road. Care is needed when belaying to avoid being whisked away by a speeding lorry. This proximity of the crag to your own parked car does make Valldemossa a good airport day crag, it being very easy to keep an eye on car and gear. The climbing is spread over four main buttresses which vary from steep slabs to vertical walls. The main crag has its famous roof over the road, an excellent popular slab with some honeycomb features in the middle, and some interesting scooped runnels on the left-hand side. The Roadside Buttress is less interesting and also the most prone to the sudden appearance of speeding cars. Up above the main crag are two considerably more isolated areas that contain some superb longer routes, some poor short ones and one stunning 7b.

Routes

56 sport routes (4a...7c)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Upper Crag
In complete contrast to the Roadside and Main Crag, the Upper Crag is strangely isolated compared...
22
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

2 mins

sheltered
84
Main Crag
The Main Crag possesses some of the best and most popular climbing at Valldemossa. It consists of a...
20
Sport
Afternoon sun
Roadside

0 mins

86
Sector Waikiki
A fine buttress, in a magnificent position, set above the Main Crag. It is worth the walk up just...
6
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

90
Roadside Buttress
This is the short wall back up the road from the parking that is easily missed when driving to the...
9
Sport
Afternoon sun
Roadside

0 mins

90
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