Perched high on an isolated hilltop, the crag at Felanitx is a lovely place with wide views and some superb climbing. The crag itself is located on the lower walls of a small hill which is home to a 13th Century Moorish castle. For the most part the rock around the castle offers little for the climber, but on the south east side there is a large vertical wall, covered in small tufas, and a vast cave which tunnels right into the hillside under the castle. All of the routes are in the higher grades with the easiest route being 6c and most much harder. There are two distinct styles to the routes here; firstly, the brutally-steep cave routes that are so beloved by the modern hard climber; and secondly, the slightly overhanging wall climbs that cater for the less powerful player. All of the climbs are well equipped and this is a good place to head for if it is raining, although it does seep after prolonged rainfall. A few of the climbs have chipped or glued-on holds and the longer pitches in the cave are split by various lower-offs and graded accordingly.
Routes
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22 sport routes (6c...8c) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents |       | ||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| Sector Es Castell A very appealing wall of superb rock that has a few chipped and glued holds on some of the lines.... |
9 | Sport |
Morning sun |
Downhill 1 min |
Dry in the Rain 0 | 208 |
| Sector Cueva A hugely impressive cave with some dramatic hard routes emerging from its depths. To the right are... |
14 | Sport |
Morning sun |
Downhill 1 min |
Dry in the Rain 0 | 209 |
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