The huge amphitheatre of Sa Gubia is the most extensive and varied crag on Mallorca, and is where the first climbing developments took place in the 1980s. Since then it has maintained its status as the island's premier crag and this is likely to continue since there is still plenty of potential here for new routes. It is only in recent years that the largest face at Sa Gubia - Cara Oeste - has begun to be developed. This major feature is tucked away out of view of most of Sa Gubia but is well worth a look if you have a few idle minutes to wander up the gully below Albahida. The climbing on offer on the better developed sections of the crag will suit most tastes and styles although it is a little lacking in the very highest grades. For the majority of climbers, Sa Gubia is a must-visit destination with a host of superb routes from slabby grade 4s to major 7s. Probably one of the most appealing aspects of climbing at Sa Gubia is the wealth of classic longer climbs such as Excalibur, and Estricina at grade 5, and Bomberos, Princesa and Sexo débil in the higher grades. There is also a classic trad route which is correctly known as Albahida but in the past has been called Gubia Normal. This follows the majestic long ridge which dominates the crag and is visible from a plane if you know where to look.

Photo: Cortocircuito (6b) at Sa Gubia on Mallorca © Mark Glaister

ROUTES

1 trad route (4+) 112 sport routes (4...8b) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents

Buttress (click for routes)	No. of Routes	Route Type	Sunshine or shade	Approach walk	Other	Page
Paret Dels Coloms This is the massive wall on the left-hand side of the gorge at Sa Gubia and gives some of the...	32			30 mins		67
Sector Albahida The long ridge that dominates the skyline of Sa Gubia is home to the most popular long trad route...	2			30 mins		70
Sector Bomberos The largest and most complex area at Sa Gubia is the huge bay which dominates the northern side of...	16			30 mins		73
Sector Princesa The huge rear wall of the bay is an immense and well-featured section of rock. At present it is...	10			30 mins		74
Sector Pataje Español The slabby lower wall below Sexo debil has a fine set of easier routes which are deservedly...	11			30 mins		76
Sector Isla Bonita A fine and popular sector with some great routes.	14			25 mins		78
Sector Excalibur This is the buttress perched above and behind Sector Silicona and is a popular location which...	11			25 mins		79
Sector Silicona This popular sector is often the first section of Sa Gubia sampled by visiting climbers. The climbs...	11			25 mins		80
Cara Oeste The west face of Sa Gubia must rank as one of the more impressive walls in Europe. It is around...	10			60 mins		81
		What do these symbols mean?

Albahida (Gubia Normal)
"A really great One! No need to take friends or chocks along, use slings instead ..." 14/Nov

Easy Slab
"The grade is at least 5 with only 3 bolts. We havent found a lower off." 25/Oct

La ley del deseo
"I would definitely climb the last pitch from the higher stance otherwise the rop..." 19/Oct

Si lo sé no vengo
"Wonderful line and climbing. There are two totally useless drilled holds. Why do..." 26/Aug

Polla boba
"Pitch one very polished but now easier than La Ley del Deseo pitch 1. Long gap ..." 07/Aug

Why!
"Glad to see this at 6c, sure it used to be 6b+, though 6c for shorties. The clin..." 07/Jul

Princesa Original
"I have to defend the authors here a bit, have been living on the island for more..." 11/May

Sexo débil
"An amazing route! Newly re-bolted and the bolt-on holds were secure and more tas..." 09/May

Princesa Original
"I have since found that the '100 Mejores Escaladas de Catalunya' 2005, has a goo..." 30/Apr

Vol de nuit
"Not escapable at all during crux moves." 19/Apr

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