CABEZON DE ORO


Travelling north from Alicante, the first mountain of any significance is the broad hump of the Cabezon de Oro (1209m) away on the left-hand side. The mountain is most famous for the show caves of the Cuevas de Canalobre and, although the seaward side of the hill looks tame, the western face features extensive sheets of rock with many fine trad climbs. Accurate information has been difficult to come by although the locals have been exploring these hills for years. The ridge has three main areas of interest to climbers; on the left is the rocky ridge of the Pared de los Alcoyanos with its huge south west face, whilst the right is the twin-peaked top of the Peña de Alicante. This has an imposing west-facing wall with a collection of very impressive sport routes, and beyond this, the fine buttress of Espolón Paiju rising to the right-hand summit.

Routes

27 sport routes (4c...8b)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Pared de los Alcoyanos
Over 25 routes weave their way up this fine 250m high face, and, although they all contain some...
4
Trad and Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

30 mins

Sector Deportivo
A huge and impressive wall, with some equally impressive pitches. This wall is still seeing...
22
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins

Dry in the Rain
Peña De Alicante
The fine summit that forms the right-hand bulwark of the cliffs here is home to several routes,...
1
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and down

0 mins

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