This army-free region needs little introduction for most seasoned visitors; just about every Pembroke devotee has spent time and energy devouring the crag’s colossal spread of highly-charged classics. These mega-lines include Tactician (HVS), The Arrow (E1), Deranged (E2), Space Cadet (E3), Tangerine Dream (E4) and Get Some In (E5). Have no fear; your ticklist will prove to be almost unquenchable. The one minor glitch in the proceedings is the mammoth rockfalls that have taken place during the last decade - gone is Conscientious Objector and its close neighbours, along with much of the quality of the Zodiac Face. But what remains still provides a stupendous number of high-quality routes, including some of the very best ticks in the county. Enjoy, and return often.
Routes
|
94 trad routes (VD...E7) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents |         | ||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| Front Line The dominant arete of Front Line gives one of the first popular ticks of St Govan's. To the left... |
11 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 5 mins |
Abseil Windy | 174 |
| Army Dreamers Army Dreamers is one of the great Pembroke classics up the steep cracks in the front face of the... |
7 | Trad |
Sun to mid-afternoon |
Level 8 mins |
Windy | 175 |
| The Butcher One of the most popular walls in Pembroke is dominated by the big arete of The Butcher. All the... |
10 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 5 mins |
Windy | 176 |
| Test Case The Test Case wall is the home of some long testing pitches which tend to give steep and sustained... |
13 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 8 mins |
Windy | 178 |
| The Arrow As the platform below St Govan’s slides into the sea, a huge tower-like buttress stands in front of... |
8 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 10 mins |
Windy | 180 |
| Tactition This steep section of cliff hangs over a raised ramp which trails off rightwards under the face.... |
10 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 8 mins |
Windy | 182 |
| Deranged The wall right of Tactician offers more steep routes. The intimidating steep starts are usually the... |
9 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 8 mins |
Windy | 184 |
| Range Rider There are one or two good lines on the rounded buttress just right of the rockfall, and then the... |
7 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 8 mins |
Windy | 185 |
| Wicked Gravity Area This massive bulging wall has a large corner on its left and a long loose corner in its centre with... |
7 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 12 mins |
Abseil Tidal Restricted Access Birds - No climbing 1 March to 31 July | - |
| Public Enemy Area This area has suffered a major rockfall in December 2005. Most of the central section has fallen... |
12 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 15 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy Restricted Access No climbing due to loose rock | - |
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