This army-free region needs little introduction for most seasoned visitors; just about every Pembroke devotee has spent time and energy devouring the crag’s colossal spread of highly-charged classics. These mega-lines include Tactician (HVS), The Arrow (E1), Deranged (E2), Space Cadet (E3), Tangerine Dream (E4) and Get Some In (E5). Have no fear; your ticklist will prove to be almost unquenchable. The one minor glitch in the proceedings is the mammoth rockfalls that have taken place during the last decade - gone is Conscientious Objector and its close neighbours, along with much of the quality of the Zodiac Face. But what remains still provides a stupendous number of high-quality routes, including some of the very best ticks in the county. Enjoy, and return often.

Photo: Example page 3 from Pembroke © Rockfax

ROUTES

94 trad routes (VD...E7) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents

Buttress (click for routes)	No. of Routes	Route Type	Sunshine or shade	Approach walk	Other	Page
Front Line The dominant arete of Front Line gives one of the first popular ticks of St Govan's. To the left...	11			5 mins		174
Army Dreamers Army Dreamers is one of the great Pembroke classics up the steep cracks in the front face of the...	7			8 mins		175
The Butcher One of the most popular walls in Pembroke is dominated by the big arete of The Butcher. All the...	10			5 mins		176
Test Case The Test Case wall is the home of some long testing pitches which tend to give steep and sustained...	13			8 mins		178
The Arrow As the platform below St Govan’s slides into the sea, a huge tower-like buttress stands in front of...	8			10 mins		180
Tactition This steep section of cliff hangs over a raised ramp which trails off rightwards under the face....	10			8 mins		182
Deranged The wall right of Tactician offers more steep routes. The intimidating steep starts are usually the...	9			8 mins		184
Range Rider There are one or two good lines on the rounded buttress just right of the rockfall, and then the...	7			8 mins		185
Wicked Gravity Area This massive bulging wall has a large corner on its left and a long loose corner in its centre with...	7			12 mins	Birds - No climbing 1 March to 31 July	-
Public Enemy Area This area has suffered a major rockfall in December 2005. Most of the central section has fallen...	12			15 mins	No climbing due to loose rock	-
		What do these symbols mean?

The Butcher
"That letterbox hold will soon be visible from space, there's so much chalk in th..." 31/Aug

Test Case
"Agree with Chris Parson, I found buckets of gear after leaving the roof, and on ..." 26/Jul

Get Some In
"Pumpy and sustained, as good as pembroke gets! Superb moves at the top before th..." 26/Jun

Vice is Nice
"Thought this was quite nice despite the polish; good flowstone, steep but good h..." 06/May

Blucher
"Great climbing, pretty hard and blind up the final arete. The threads seemes ok..." 28/Apr

Range Rider
"a nice varied line with good rests between moves. The trick, of course, is to us..." 13/Oct

Munchies
"Easy for the strong,or if you regularly climb E1 or above, otherwise you could e..." 11/Oct

Space Cadet
"One of my first clean E3 onsights - a brilliant route. If you've done the Butche..." 05/Sep

Kraken
"Nowhere near as strenuous as it deserves to be at that angle !" 01/Sep

John Wayne
"underrated - despite the slightly disappointing lower third. 'Hollow and about t..." 31/Aug

The Arrow
"Remains a fine route and isn't especially polished. The start is straight forwar..." 26/Aug

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