The huge vertical grey and red limestone faces of Llanymynech Quarry are unmissable when travelling along the Welsh border road between Wrexham and Welshpool. Llanymynech Quarry has a lot of very long sports and traditional one pitch routes a handful of which are well worth the trouble of a visit from afar. A good number of the routes here are among the longest single pitch sports climbs in the country. The quarry has been disused for a long time and is now a nature reserve that is well managed and has transformed the area into a very pleasent and quiet spot to climb. The views from the routes and top of the cliff out across the River Severn flood plain of Shropshire to the hilltops of The Wrekin and Criggan are expansive.
Routes
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21 trad routes (D...E6) 28 sport routes (5+...8a) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents | |||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| Cul-de-Sac Quarry This is a useful spot for those in need of a very intense finger workout. It can be reached by... |
14 | Sport |
Sun and shade |
Level 5 mins |
151 | |
| The Nomad Wall A huge and intimidating wall that has a number of big climbs on good rock. These routes see little... |
4 | Trad |
Sun to mid-afternoon |
Level 5 mins |
152 | |
| The Grid Iron Wall This massive wall has a series of huge bolted routes that have an adventurous feel about them. The... |
12 | Sport |
Sun to mid-afternoon |
Level 5 mins |
153 | |
| Black Wall The Black Wall at Llanymynech is a superb wall of good rock which compares favourably to any... |
8 | Trad |
Sun to mid-afternoon |
Level 5 mins |
Restricted Access no climbing 1 March to 30 June - nesting birds | 154 |
| The Red Wall The Red Wall is a huge face with some amazing pitches which prove far more interesting than the... |
11 | Sport |
Morning sun |
Level 5 mins |
Restricted Access no climbing 1 March to 30 June - nesting birds | 156 |
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