Anstey’s Cove has some of the best and toughest sport climbing in Britain and its climbing style and rock is in good contrast to that found on Portland and at Swanage. During the late 1980s this small area around Torbay became a popular forcing-ground with many top climbers visiting to try and repeat the hard routes, more often than not with a frustrating lack of success. Since this time the desperate additions by Ken Palmer have kept on appearing at regular intervals and repeats of the hardest lines are rare. Those who are intimidated by the famous big grades of the gnarly routes of the Ferocity Wall should not be put off. The adjacent Empire Wall and Cocytus Area offer a good number of smart easier routes.
As on Portland, the climbs are staple bolted. Only 10 or 12 quickdraws and a 50m rope are needed although an abseil rope is required at Long Quarry Point. The few lines that are not fully-bolted are the quality traditional challenges like Devonshire Cream and The Mitre but these have some fixed gear so just a single rack of wires should suffice.
Routes
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18 trad routes (HS...E6) 42 sport routes (6a...8c) 3 dws routes (7b+...8a) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents |        | ||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| Empire of the Sun Wall The wall overlooking the approach path has a few traditional routes on its left-hand side. The... |
14 | Sport |
Afternoon sun |
Downhill 8 mins |
Seepage Dry in the Rain | 308 |
| Mitre Buttress The weirdly-structured and well named Mitre Buttress provides a handful of absorbing and... |
12 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Downhill 8 mins |
Dry in the Rain | 309 |
| The Upper Wall The Upper Wall is the short wall above the Ferocity Wall. |
3 | Sport |
Afternoon sun |
Downhill 8 mins |
Dry in the Rain | 310 |
| Ferocity Wall The continuously-leaning and colourfully-streaked Ferocity Wall is one of the UK's most difficult... |
15 | Sport |
Sun from mid-morning |
Downhill 8 mins |
Dry in the Rain Windy | 310 |
| Upper Cliffs No description as yet. |
3 | Trad |
Sun from mid-morning |
Downhill 10 mins |
365 | |
| Cocytus Area Down the slope from the Ferocity Wall is another fine buttress consisting of a series of grooves... |
11 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Downhill 10 mins |
Dry in the Rain | 312 |
| Long Quarry Point Long Quarry Point is the vast disused open quarry at the northern end of Anstey’s Cove. There are a... |
5 | Sport |
Early morning sun |
Up and down 10 mins |
Abseil Tidal | 313 |
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