LOWER SHARPNOSE


Wafer-thin and defying the onslaught of wind and sea, the three massive fins of rock that poke out from the coastline at Lower Sharpnose Point provide some of the UK's most spectacular rock climbs. The routes span the grades from HVS to E8 and all share the magnificent combination of exposure and great positions that make a visit to Lower Sharpnose a memorable experience. The rock is on the whole well supplied with good holds and gear, although a high level of fitness is required in order to hang on and place it. The majority of the lines follow discontinuous thin crack-lines up the blank-looking faces of the fins apart from the classic easier corner-lines. Some of the lines have in situ equipment in the form of pegs which should always be backed-up if possible and a good rack of cams will be found very useful. The faces of the fins allow for climbing in the sun and shade throughout the day and also may give shelter from the wind.

Routes

17 trad routes (HVS...E6)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
North Fin
A fabulous wall of jug-infested culm that provides some of the most inspiring single-pitch climbs...
10
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and down

35 mins

Tidal
Middle Fin - North Face
An impressive sweep of culm that is cut by a couple of tall corner-cracks which are the lines for...
3
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and down

35 mins

Tidal
Middle Fin - South Face
One of the UK's most impressive sections of cliff with a number of memorable extreme lines. The...
5
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and down

35 mins

Tidal
South Fin
There is one further route that deserves a mention. It is on the North Face of the South Fin. The...
1
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and down

35 mins

Tidal
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  • Latest Comments

    For LOWER SHARPNOSE

    Break On Through
    "Beautiful route of the very highest quality. Miles off E4, the holds are mas..." 20/Apr top50

    Wraith
    "great route but another soft tick, more like E3 than E5" 27/Feb

    Last Laugh
    "Felt a bit bold after the (tough) crux move" 29/Oct

    The Devonian
    "Fingery & hard low down, technical & balancey & fingery high up. Top..." 04/Jul

    Wraith
    "Very good climbing, but is this really harder than steady E4? Isn't it about ti..." 21/Jun

    Coronary Country
    "The lower peg looks reasonable, but needs to be tied off (easy on lead). The sec..." 30/May

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