The Dewerstone is located in the magical ancient wooded valleys of south-west Dartmoor and is a wonderful place to experience some classic low to mid-grade climbing. For those who have not been to the Dewerstone before the first sighting will come as neck-craning surprise. The Main Face towers up through the trees above the babbling River Plym and way up into the sky; it is impressive. Many of the climbs are multi-pitch, sustained and often require a good crack technique. The Main Face, along with the equally appealing neighbouring outcroppings of Needle and Raven Buttresses, is seamed with long cracks and well-defined grooves and corners. Protection is nearly always perfect and the holds are positive allowing the spectacular situations to be enjoyed to the full. The Dewerstone has plenty to offer the climber operating in the Severe to E1 grade range and would make an excellent long weekend venue.
Online guide to the Dewerstone - http://javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/Dewerstone/Dewerstn.pdf
Routes
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15 trad routes (VD...E1) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents | |||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| Main Face For those who have not been to the Dewerstone before the first sighting will come as neck craning... |
10 | Trad |
Sun to mid-afternoon |
Uphill 10 mins |
12 | |
| Needle Buttress A smart buttress with a couple of very good routes up its sunny south-east face. Well worth the 5... |
2 | Trad |
Sun to mid-afternoon |
Uphill 15 mins |
14 | |
| Raven Buttress The lower section of Raven Buttress has some really good two pitch lines. The nature of the... |
3 | Trad |
Sun to mid-afternoon |
Uphill 15 mins |
15 | |
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