CARREG-Y-BARCUD


Carreg-y-Barcud is undoubtedly North Pembroke's finest sheet of sandstone; its purple/brown walls and slabs are taller and more impressive than the region's other venues, and are home to some brilliant, high-quality routes. The rock here is a compact sandstone, which has formed into huge uniform slabs covered in tiny edges and thin cracks. The Main Wall of Carreg-y-Barcud is the largest slab in the area and has a superb selection of trad routes from E1 upwards.
The climbing is mostly very sustained and technical but if you have strong calves you will be able to take all day over the moves. Most of the routes follow thin cracks which are wide enough for wires but not for your fingers. In places the cracks run out which gives bolder sections and there is little in the way of fixed protection. Indeed routes climbed in the past with bolt runners have all had these removed, any new bolts will also be removed. There are some pegs but these are likely to be untrustworthy so take great care before you place any reliance on them. The lesser climbed routes of all grades may have the odd loose hold so take care.

Routes

46 trad routes (VD...E8)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Grey Face
The far left-hand side (looking in) of Carreg-y-Barcud has several bays with some striking corners...
3
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

20 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Yellow Wall
To the left of the Main Face is a fine little bay with an impressive back wall.
9
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

20 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Main Face
The finest climbing at Carreg-y-Barcud is on the huge main slab. The routes here tend to be...
34
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

20 mins

Abseil
Tidal
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