ILKLEY

Ilkley has been a popular destination for generations of climbers. Sitting proudly above the town of the same name, the crag almost seems to have adopted the character of a dour Yorkshire man - the Quarry can be dark cold and oppressive, especially in high winds; the Cow and Calf are sturdy and uncompromising; and the remote edge of Rocky Valley is understated and steeped in history. As with Yorkshire men, be patient and tackle them on your terms and you could well be rewarded. The most famous routes are on the Cow with Milky Way and New Statesmen being great test-pieces of their eras. The Cow's smaller sidekick has some popular bouldering and micro-routes. Probably the least attractive of Ilkley's venues is the Quarry which manages to feel cold and desolate even on summer days. Bits of the Quarry have collapsed over the years and the council's removal of the rock above Wellington Crack has added to the general air of neglect. Despite this, there are some excellent climbs and a day spent here should be rewarded with a healthy set of ticks. Rocky Valley just over the hill adds some more remote feeling climbs to the mix. The accessibility of Ilkley means that it has long been a forcing ground and the first ascent names and dates of some of the climbs make impressive reading. Just remember that hat.

Routes

125 trad routes (M...E8) 25 boulder problems (VB...V11) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents