SCUGDALE


This lovely little edge is the most popular venue on the North York Moors and with good reason. An easy approach, a sunny aspect and an excellent collection of climbs across the grades all add to the attraction of the place. The crag is not very high and this has led to it being somewhat overlooked in the past, but what it does offer tends to be on beautifully featured rock, with excellent holds, cracks and breaks. It isn't all sweetness and light though, many routes are tricky to protect, holds do occasionally snap and the landings are often poor.

Routes

118 trad routes (M...E4)
1 boulder problem (??)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Uncle's and Parson's Nose
Two small buttresses on the far left with an interesting collection of routes. This area is usually...
11
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
202
Scot Buttress
A smart looking buttress, probably the best at this end of the cliff. It is easily recognised by...
11
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
203
Romulus and Remus
A pair of slabby faces on the left, split by a deep chimney. The right-hand buttress is crossed by...
7
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
204
The Prow
The jutting blade of rock that is tackled front on by The Prow is the best feature in this area,...
10
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
204
Adam and Eve
Another 'odd couple'; like Romulus and Remus. A short and tall buttress sit together. Adam is tiny,...
9
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
205
The Pulpit and Drunken Buttress
On the left are the stacked block overhangs of the Pulpit, and to the right the large leaning tower...
16
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

8 mins

sheltered
206
Pisa and Scugdale Buttress
Pisa is the right-leaning buttress with the bulk of Drunken Buttress slumped against it (obviously...
13
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

8 mins

sheltered
207
Barker's Buttress
One of the better buttresses on the cliff with a good variety of routes of a decent length,...
14
Trad
Lots of sun!
 
sheltered
208
Holly Tree Buttress
As the years roll by the tree gets ever bigger and the routes around it disappear under the spiky...
12
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

8 mins

sheltered
210
Beginners' Slab
The final pair of buttresses are popular with beginners and not just because they are the nearest...
16
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

6 mins

sheltered
211
What do these symbols mean? 
  • Latest Comments

    For SCUGDALE

    Main Mast Crack
    "Much to my disappointment (I'd even donned my Aldi thrutching jacket in preparat..." 23/Jul

    Pingers
    "Is this the only VS with a one finger pull-up?" 10/Dec

    The Shelf
    "A classic highball sprint." 25/Sep top50

    The Prow
    "'Lifting a Fridge'it couldn't be put any better!" 13/Sep top50

    Pets' Corner
    "Yeah, got to be worth 2 stars at least. Certainly one of the best routes I've do..." 12/Sep top50

    Pets' Corner
    "better than zeta wall" 12/Sep top50

    Prickly Rib
    "Up the left hand side of the rib, surely? Though might be HS up the right hand ..." 26/Jun

    The Bulkhead
    "More like VS 4c I reckon. The slightly overhanging finger crack at the top is da..." 19/Jun

    Bonzo
    "One of your reachy symbols would suit this climb well." 31/May top50

    Stewker
    "Another route that has been responsible for more than its fair share of broken l..." 21/Apr

    The Shelf
    "also watch you ankles - cost me a badly twisted ankle and a few months off!" 20/Apr top50

    Main Mast Crack
    "Well this gets Severe in the current guidebook, and whilst it is a bit of a thra..." 16/Apr

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