This lovely little edge is the most popular venue on the North York Moors and with good reason. An easy approach, a sunny aspect and an excellent collection of climbs across the grades all add to the attraction of the place. The crag is not very high and this has led to it being somewhat overlooked in the past, but what it does offer tends to be on beautifully featured rock, with excellent holds, cracks and breaks. It isn't all sweetness and light though, many routes are tricky to protect, holds do occasionally snap and the landings are often poor.
Routes
|
118 trad routes (M...E4) 1 boulder problem (V4) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents |         | ||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| Uncle's and Parson's Nose Two small buttresses on the far left with an interesting collection of routes. This area is usually... |
11 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 10 mins |
202 | |
| Scot Buttress A smart looking buttress, probably the best at this end of the cliff. It is easily recognised by... |
11 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 10 mins |
203 | |
| Romulus and Remus A pair of slabby faces on the left, split by a deep chimney. The right-hand buttress is crossed by... |
7 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 10 mins |
204 | |
| The Prow The jutting blade of rock that is tackled front on by The Prow is the best feature in this area,... |
10 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 10 mins |
204 | |
| Adam and Eve Another 'odd couple'; like Romulus and Remus. A short and tall buttress sit together. Adam is tiny,... |
9 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 10 mins |
205 | |
| The Pulpit and Drunken Buttress On the left are the stacked block overhangs of the Pulpit, and to the right the large leaning tower... |
16 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 8 mins |
206 | |
| Pisa and Scugdale Buttress Pisa is the right-leaning buttress with the bulk of Drunken Buttress slumped against it (obviously... |
13 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 8 mins |
207 | |
| Barker's Buttress One of the better buttresses on the cliff with a good variety of routes of a decent length,... |
14 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
208 | ||
| Holly Tree Buttress As the years roll by the tree gets ever bigger and the routes around it disappear under the spiky... |
12 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 8 mins |
210 | |
| Beginners' Slab The final pair of buttresses are popular with beginners and not just because they are the nearest... |
16 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 6 mins |
211 | |
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