The Wainstones is one of the original climbing venues of the North York Moors, the old guys were attracted by the twinned mini-towers of the Needle and the Steeple as well as the superb aspect of the crag. Over a hundred years on, the place is still well worth a visit. There is a good spread of grades to go at, the rock is excellent hard sandstone and the setting is a delight. Despite all the attractions the Wainstones are a lot less popular than they used to be, maybe it is a fashion thing.
Routes
|
65 trad routes (M...E5) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents |         | ||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| Broughton Buttress The left-hand side of the cliff is the least popular, the routes are short and they don't get much... |
15 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Uphill 25 mins |
Windy | 214 |
| The Steeple and the Needle A couple of fine if diminutive spires that are one of the attractions of the crag - summiting both... |
9 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Uphill 25 mins |
Windy | 215 |
| Summit Buttress & Ling Buttress The main south west-facing section of the Wainstones starts with a couple of nice buttresses, one... |
11 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 25 mins |
Windy | 216 |
| The Sphinx The central feature of the face is the jutting headstone of the Sphinx. There are a couple of real... |
9 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 25 mins |
Windy | 217 |
| Bilsdale Buttress and Main Wall Another pair of pleasant buttresses with a collection of worthwhile lower grade routes in a sunny... |
13 | Trad |
Sun from mid-morning |
Uphill 25 mins |
Windy | 218 |
| Garfit Buttress The crag's last gasp is the tall steep tower of Garfit Buttress, home to some of the harder routes.... |
8 | Trad |
Sun from mid-morning |
Uphill 25 mins |
Windy | 219 |
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