WAINSTONES


The Wainstones is one of the original climbing venues of the North York Moors, the old guys were attracted by the twinned mini-towers of the Needle and the Steeple as well as the superb aspect of the crag. Over a hundred years on, the place is still well worth a visit. There is a good spread of grades to go at, the rock is excellent hard sandstone and the setting is a delight. Despite all the attractions the Wainstones are a lot less popular than they used to be, maybe it is a fashion thing.

Routes

65 trad routes (M...E5)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Broughton Buttress
The left-hand side of the cliff is the least popular, the routes are short and they don't get much...
15
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

25 mins

The Steeple and the Needle
A couple of fine if diminutive spires that are one of the attractions of the crag - summiting both...
9
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

25 mins

Summit Buttress & Ling Buttress
The main south west-facing section of the Wainstones starts with a couple of nice buttresses, one...
11
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

25 mins

The Sphinx
The central feature of the face is the jutting headstone of the Sphinx. There are a couple of real...
9
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

25 mins

Bilsdale Buttress and Main Wall
Another pair of pleasant buttresses with a collection of worthwhile lower grade routes in a sunny...
13
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

25 mins

Garfit Buttress
The crag's last gasp is the tall steep tower of Garfit Buttress, home to some of the harder routes....
8
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

25 mins

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  • Latest Comments

    For WAINSTONES

    East Sphinx Direct
    "I go with Franco @ HS 5b - hard move(s) all low down." 23/Sep

    North Route
    "The gear is sparse - a bad thread. You may find yourself soloing." 31/May top50

    West Sphinx Direct
    "had to piano play my fingers into the eye, felt like hard 5c to me at 5'7"...." 02/Oct top50

    Little Bo-Peep
    "it is easierb to nip across quickly rather than burn out placing gear higher up...." 18/Sep top50

    Tiny's Dilemma Direct
    "the start is SUPER polished took me a while to get onto the first footholds :S..." 14/Nov

    Steeple Groove
    "HVD is way overgraded. Its Diff in the NE England guide and that seems about rig..." 31/May

    Sesame
    "Seeing as this is E2, you may as well head left and tackle Ali Baba as the crux ..." 21/Apr

    East Sphinx Direct
    "i recon HS 5b" 19/Mar

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