WAINSTONES


The Wainstones is one of the original climbing venues of the North York Moors, the old guys were attracted by the twinned mini-towers of the Needle and the Steeple as well as the superb aspect of the crag. Over a hundred years on, the place is still well worth a visit. There is a good spread of grades to go at, the rock is excellent hard sandstone and the setting is a delight. Despite all the attractions the Wainstones are a lot less popular than they used to be, maybe it is a fashion thing.

Routes

65 trad routes (M...E5)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Broughton Buttress
The left-hand side of the cliff is the least popular, the routes are short and they don't get much...
15
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

25 mins

214
The Steeple and the Needle
A couple of fine if diminutive spires that are one of the attractions of the crag - summiting both...
9
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

25 mins

215
Summit Buttress & Ling Buttress
The main south west-facing section of the Wainstones starts with a couple of nice buttresses, one...
11
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

25 mins

216
The Sphinx
The central feature of the face is the jutting headstone of the Sphinx. There are a couple of real...
9
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

25 mins

217
Bilsdale Buttress and Main Wall
Another pair of pleasant buttresses with a collection of worthwhile lower grade routes in a sunny...
13
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

25 mins

218
Garfit Buttress
The crag's last gasp is the tall steep tower of Garfit Buttress, home to some of the harder routes....
8
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

25 mins

219
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  • Latest Comments

    For WAINSTONES

    East Sphinx Direct
    "I go with Franco @ HS 5b - hard move(s) all low down." 23/Sep

    North Route
    "The gear is sparse - a bad thread. You may find yourself soloing." 31/May top50

    West Sphinx Direct
    "had to piano play my fingers into the eye, felt like hard 5c to me at 5'7"...." 02/Oct top50

    Little Bo-Peep
    "it is easierb to nip across quickly rather than burn out placing gear higher up...." 18/Sep top50

    Tiny's Dilemma Direct
    "the start is SUPER polished took me a while to get onto the first footholds :S..." 14/Nov

    Steeple Groove
    "HVD is way overgraded. Its Diff in the NE England guide and that seems about rig..." 31/May

    Sesame
    "Seeing as this is E2, you may as well head left and tackle Ali Baba as the crux ..." 21/Apr

    East Sphinx Direct
    "i recon HS 5b" 19/Mar

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