BOWDEN DOORS


Perhaps the archetypal Northumbrian crag, Bowden Doors has everything; over 150 routes right across the grade spectrum, wonderful rock, easy accessibility, a great outlook, the afternoon sun and loads of bouldering. With all this it is hardly surprising that the place gets popular; if you find it a bit busy then it is always worth heading further along the crag to find a more peaceful spot.
Access - Although the rock is superb quality sandstone, it is easily damaged by ropes running over the edge. If you must top-rope here, PLEASE do your utmost to protect the rock by ensuring that your belay rope is draped well over the edge of the crag and well padded by a rucksack or similar. The same applies to leaders, winching multiple seconds up routes.
The southern end of the crag and the normal approach are not on Access Land. The farmer has made the very reasonable request that people don't park in front of the gate to the field, and that they don't bring any dogs with them - please respect his wishes.

Routes

108 trad routes (M...E6)
18 boulder problems (?...?)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
The Scoops
The far left-hand end of Bowden Doors sees less traffic than most of the rest of the cliff, though...
13
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

5 mins

314
The Wave
A magnificent feature, a wide wall of impeccable rock topped off by a rolling wave of rippled...
17
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

5 mins

315
Barbarian
A couple of lesser buttresses towards the left-hand end of the cliff, though with a smattering of...
12
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

5 mins

316
Banana Wall and Tiger Wall
These two adjacent faces have a great set of routes that have climbing that is a bit slabbier than...
15
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

5 mins

317
Lorraine and Castle Crack
A couple of fine buttresses with a selection of worthwhile climbs and a couple of real Bowden...
13
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

5 mins

318
Castle Wall and Scorpion
The small bulbous buttress under the wall and the wider face to the right has some interesting...
14
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

5 mins

319
Leaning Grooves and Canada Crack
The central section of the cliff has many fine climbs up interesting features and on good rock. All...
14
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

4 mins

320
The Overhanging Crack
The section of rock to the left of the Main Wall is less extensive and less impressive. Despite...
7
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

5 mins

321
Main Wall
The first section of the crag reached from the road consists of a couple of steep walls that...
21
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

3 mins

322
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  • Latest Comments

    For BOWDEN DOORS

    Yellow Peril
    "Not a route to fall off.....ankle smasher...at best." 12/Jun

    Tiger's Wall
    "VS in all guides I've seen. Is about the same as lorraine in difficulty" 22/Nov top50

    Russet Groove
    "Excellent diff. My first ever lead and still an exellent route!" 10/Apr top50

    Klondyke Wall
    "You have to go a fair way before getting any gear, after which its all over. Ni..." 16/Nov top50

    Jock Strap
    "I'm 8ft 2 and thought it was V1" 20/Oct

    Scorpion
    "not one move on this climb is more than 4b. the top crux is protected by wires, ..." 19/Oct

    Lorraine
    "I'm a thug, and it was a piece of piss to solo. It's still clearly and objective..." 26/Jul top50

    Lorraine
    "HVS. End of debate you thugs....................." 21/Aug top50

    Tiger's Wall
    "It is HVS but it isn't Northumberland HVS! Sacrelidge!" 29/Mar top50

    Jock Strap
    "No harder than the original" 06/Mar

    Lorraine
    "Absolutely superb. Shouldn't be upgraded as its so easily read from the ground...." 29/Jan top50

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