KYLOE IN THE WOOD


An accurate name for a lovely little crag hidden away in a huge and silent forest - it makes you wonder how it was ever discovered and what else lurks in the dark Northumbrian forests? On first sight the crag is a bit disappointing, green and dwarfed by the trees, though on closer inspection, two things become obvious, firstly, that the rock is of superb quality and, secondly, the crag might not be very tall, but it is certainly steep, especially in its lower section. The place has been popular for many years with boulderers and a few of the more significant problems, plus the routes that are normally done as boulder problems, are listed here. If you are doing the routes that go to the top of the crag, be aware that the exits can be covered in pine needles - a novel objective danger.

Routes

44 trad routes (D...E9)
26 boulder problems (?...?)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
The Hobbit and Swan Wall
The first rocks reached appear a bit disappointing, hardly managing to escape the greenery, though...
17
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

15 mins

sheltered
334
Mony Python's
The undercut bulging walls and striking crack-lines are especially popular with boulderers, the...
19
Boulder
Sun and shade
Level

15 mins

Dry in the Rain
sheltered
335
The Flutings
Further into the woods is this lovely selection of climbs, based around the open corner of Piccolo....
11
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

15 mins

sheltered
336
Bobby Dazzler
This slabby little wall increases in size as it runs rightwards. Near the left-hand side is the...
12
Boulder
Sun and shade
Level

15 mins

sheltered
-
High T and The Crucifix
Two features mark out the next areas. The T crack is on the right of a steep and rather...
11
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

15 mins

sheltered
338
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