An accurate name for a lovely little crag hidden away in a huge and silent forest - it makes you wonder how it was ever discovered and what else lurks in the dark Northumbrian forests? On first sight the crag is a bit disappointing, green and dwarfed by the trees, though on closer inspection, two things become obvious, firstly, that the rock is of superb quality and, secondly, the crag might not be very tall, but it is certainly steep, especially in its lower section. The place has been popular for many years with boulderers and a few of the more significant problems, plus the routes that are normally done as boulder problems, are listed here. If you are doing the routes that go to the top of the crag, be aware that the exits can be covered in pine needles - a novel objective danger.
Routes
|
44 trad routes (D...E9) 26 boulder problems (VB...V14) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents |         | ||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| The Hobbit and Swan Wall The first rocks reached appear a bit disappointing, hardly managing to escape the greenery, though... |
17 | Trad |
Sun and shade |
Level 15 mins |
334 | |
| Mony Python's The undercut bulging walls and striking crack-lines are especially popular with boulderers, the... |
19 | Boulder |
Sun and shade |
Level 15 mins |
Dry in the Rain | 335 |
| The Flutings Further into the woods is this lovely selection of climbs, based around the open corner of Piccolo.... |
11 | Trad |
Sun and shade |
Uphill 15 mins |
336 | |
| Bobby Dazzler This slabby little wall increases in size as it runs rightwards. Near the left-hand side is the... |
12 | Boulder |
Sun and shade |
Level 15 mins |
- | |
| High T and The Crucifix Two features mark out the next areas. The T crack is on the right of a steep and rather... |
11 | Trad |
Sun and shade |
Level 15 mins |
338 | |
| What do these symbols mean? | ||||||
