CHAPEL HEAD SCAR


Standing in immaculate countryside Chapel Head Scar is the greatest limestone crag in Cumbria and stands comparison with the best on offer in the UK. Much of Chapel Head ScarŐs appeal is its combination of choice hard sports routes set in what is one of the Lake Districts least travelled and quaint corners. There are few moments that can come close to a mid-week in late spring with only the woodpecker to view your antics on some truly stunning pitches. The crag is extensive but only around half of it is developed due to access considerations. What is developed is simply brilliant and gives routes of diversity and length all on beautifully structured buttresses. The three major sectors each have a distinct character, ranging from long technical wall climbs through to steep and pumpy tufas. If it does have a fault it is that it does seep badly after prolonged rainfall.

Routes

13 trad routes (VS...E5)
52 sport routes (5+...8a)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Gully Wall
This is the wall on the far left of the crag, just before the sign informing climbers about the...
9
Sport
Afternoon sun
Up and down

10 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Restricted Access

No climbing 1 March to 30 June

362
Moonchild Buttress
The section of cliff above the approach path is composed of immaculate Limestone. There are some...
22
Trad and Sport
Afternoon sun
Up and down

10 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Restricted Access

No climbing 1 March to 30 June

363
Great Wall
A trio of superb pitches weave their way up this towering wall of perfect rock. The climbing is...
5
Sport
Afternoon sun
Up and down

10 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Restricted Access

No climbing 1 March to 30 June

364
The Great Buttress
The main central section of Great Buttress ranks with the best that UK limestone has to offer...
29
Sport
Afternoon sun
Up and down

10 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Restricted Access

No climbing 1 March to 30 June

365
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  • Latest Comments

    For CHAPEL HEAD SCAR

    62 West Wallaby Street
    "Better bolts, tree branch gone..still tough!" 21/Sep

    Perverse Pepere
    "A very good route, perfect rock, interesting climbing , nicely bolted and worth ..." 23/Aug top50

    Reefer Madness
    "more of a micro turd than a gem. not a warm up and not very pleasant." 28/Jun

    Bleep and Booster
    "There was a new direct finish done a while ago, makes much more sense and stripp..." 23/Jul top50

    Stretchy Perineum
    "Nice route,bit of a ramble after the first half but very enjoyable. Hard 7b+" 13/Jul top50

    Zantom Phone
    "A great wall climb if slightly spoiled by the line forcing left of finger jugs o..." 24/Jun top50

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