Standing in immaculate countryside Chapel Head Scar is the greatest limestone crag in Cumbria and stands comparison with the best on offer in the UK. Much of Chapel Head ScarŐs appeal is its combination of choice hard sports routes set in what is one of the Lake Districts least travelled and quaint corners. There are few moments that can come close to a mid-week in late spring with only the woodpecker to view your antics on some truly stunning pitches. The crag is extensive but only around half of it is developed due to access considerations. What is developed is simply brilliant and gives routes of diversity and length all on beautifully structured buttresses. The three major sectors each have a distinct character, ranging from long technical wall climbs through to steep and pumpy tufas. If it does have a fault it is that it does seep badly after prolonged rainfall.
Routes
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13 trad routes (VS...E5) 52 sport routes (5+...8a) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents |        | ||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| Gully Wall This is the wall on the far left of the crag, just before the sign informing climbers about the... |
9 | Sport |
Afternoon sun |
Up and down 10 mins |
Seepage Dry in the Rain Restricted Access No climbing 1 March to 30 June | 362 |
| Moonchild Buttress The section of cliff above the approach path is composed of immaculate Limestone. There are some... |
22 | Trad and Sport |
Afternoon sun |
Up and down 10 mins |
Seepage Dry in the Rain Restricted Access No climbing 1 March to 30 June | 363 |
| Great Wall A trio of superb pitches weave their way up this towering wall of perfect rock. The climbing is... |
5 | Sport |
Afternoon sun |
Up and down 10 mins |
Seepage Dry in the Rain Restricted Access No climbing 1 March to 30 June | 364 |
| The Great Buttress The main central section of Great Buttress ranks with the best that UK limestone has to offer... |
29 | Sport |
Afternoon sun |
Up and down 10 mins |
Seepage Dry in the Rain Restricted Access No climbing 1 March to 30 June | 365 |
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