CHAPEL HEAD SCAR


Chapel Head Scar is the finest limestone crag in Cumbria and stands comparison with the best on offer in the UK. It has lots of superb hard sport routes set in one of the Lake District's least-travelled and quaintest corners. The crag is extensive but only around half of it is developed because of access considerations. What is developed is simply brilliant and gives routes of diversity and length all on beautifully structured buttresses. The three major sectors have a distinct character, ranging from long technical wall climbs through to steep and pumpy tufas. The best climbing at Chapel Head is in the 6c to 8a range along with a small number of trad routes in the mid E-grades. The bolting on the whole is excellent as are the lower-offs. On the traditional routes a standard rack and double ropes are sufficient.

Routes

9 trad routes (VS...E5)
62 sport routes (6a...8a)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Gully Wall
This is the tree-shrouded wall on the far left of the crag, just before the sign informing climbers...
9
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

Seepage
sheltered
Restricted Access
Moonchild Buttress
A brilliant section of the crag that rises directly above where the approach path meets the cliff....
23
Trad and Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Restricted Access
Great Wall
A towering wall of superb rock up which a trio of magnificent climbs wend their way. Seepage can...
6
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Restricted Access
The Great Buttress
The Great Buttress is one of the UK's finest limestone crags that is plastered with fantastic sport...
33
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Restricted Access
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  • Latest Comments

    For CHAPEL HEAD SCAR

    Android
    "Changed from 5c *** to E4 5c ***, 84% of 6 votes for E4" 18/Nov

    62 West Wallaby Street
    "Better bolts, tree branch gone..still tough!" 21/Sep

    Perverse Pepere
    "A very good route, perfect rock, interesting climbing , nicely bolted and worth ..." 23/Aug

    Reefer Madness
    "more of a micro turd than a gem. not a warm up and not very pleasant." 28/Jun

    Bleep and Booster
    "There was a new direct finish done a while ago, makes much more sense and stripp..." 23/Jul

    Stretchy Perineum
    "Nice route,bit of a ramble after the first half but very enjoyable. Hard 7b+" 13/Jul

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