BERRY HEAD DWS


Welcome to Berry Head, Devon's deep water soloing Mecca, with its profusion of isolated grottos, incredible lines and pumpy traverses. The multi-coloured, jug-infested overhanging walls have long been a testing ground for deep water soloists, drawn to the headland's classic high quality traverses and numerous 'up' routes. The huge walls of the Old Redoubt Fort atop Berry Head date back to the times of the Napoleonic Wars, when Torbay was used for anchorage and served as a re-supply point for the British Channel Fleet. The headland was chosen to house a formidable battery of very large guns. You'll see the huge walls, built between 1795 and 1806, all around the headland, including the Berry Head Quarry area.

Routes

73 dws routes (4a...7c)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
The Old Redoubt
Berry Head's Old Redoubt crag is one of the UK's most impressive sea cliffs. The Great Cave is an...
4
DWS
Morning sun
Downhill

20 mins

Tidal
Restricted Access
Rainbow Bridge - Great Cave
The long and involved traverse of Rainbow Bridge is a must for any ambitious deep water soloist,...
9
DWS
Morning sun
Downhill

20 mins

Tidal
Restricted Access
Rainbow Bridge - Pink Block
Stunning rock and architecture are the backdrop for some great routes that only require a swift...
8
DWS
Morning sun
Downhill

20 mins

Tidal
Restricted Access
Rainbow Bridge - Crux Area
Home to the smooth, technical crux of Rainbow Bridge and a number of hard steep solos, including...
5
DWS
Morning sun
Downhill

2 mins

Tidal
Restricted Access
Rainbow Bridge - Cod Tympani
The next section of cliff is on the other side of the boulder choke which forms the junction of the...
4
DWS
Morning sun
Downhill

2 mins

Tidal
Restricted Access
Rainbow Bridge - Terminal Zawn
The final section of Rainbow Bridge crosses the feature known as the Terminal Zawn (it's not...
5
DWS
Morning sun
Downhill

2 mins

Tidal
Restricted Access
The Oz Wall
The Terminal Zawn Ledge gives access to the finish of Rainbow Bridge, and also provides the most...
4
DWS
Afternoon sun
Downhill

10 mins

Tidal
Restricted Access
White Rhino Buttress
An excellent steep venue, with amenable low level routes that do not venture too far above the...
11
DWS
Afternoon sun
Downhill

10 mins

Tidal
Restricted Access
Berry Head Quarry
For those of familiar with the area, and who have ever wondered just what Berry Head Quarry really...
23
DWS
Sun and shade
Downhill

15 mins

Tidal
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  • Latest Comments

    For BERRY HEAD DWS

    Magical Mystery Tour
    "Brilliant!" 08/Sep top50

    Magical Mystery Tour
    "Possibly the most fun route in the world. Did it for the first time last Saturda..." 17/Aug top50

    Cod Tympani
    "great climbing with a real out there feel; you're maybe 30ft above the sea, 10ft..." 24/Sep

    Loftgroover
    "Pretty good although I thought the shallow scoop in the face to the left (not su..." 12/Aug

    Barrel Traverse
    "On-sighted 2005, by mistake! I thought this was Rainbow bridge! Awesome though!" 10/Jul

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