BLACKNOR NORTH


Blacknor North is justifiably one of the most popular areas on Portland, with fine lines in abundance that ascend some of the most amazing flowstone formations to be found anywhere in the UK.

Conditions
Blacknor North is fairly exposed to the wind, but can offer shelter if the wind is blowing straight onto, or over, the cliff-line. It is the last of the Blancknor crags to get the sun.

Access
The main access problems here are to do with parking. Please follow the parking instructions described below, this will avoid the problems that have been created in the past by climbers parking randomly in the Weston Estate. The area to the north of Blacknor Far North is a sanctuary zone so please keep out.

Approach
Blacknor North is approached from the designated Climbers' and Walkers' car park (fee) at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate. If the car park is full, please park on the main street in Weston, and walk through the estate to the car park. It is also possible to park in Reap Lane. Walk towards the cliff-top path, and turn right (looking out). Continue for about 500m, past an old concrete-wall on the cliff edge, before the path drops down slightly into a quarried area. Locate a small path that drops steeply at a break in the cliff-line, and doubles back leftwards (facing out) down the hill. This leads down to the first routes on the Death of Cool Area.

Routes

2 sport route (5c)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
-
^
^
^
 
Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Far North
A small, isolated block north of the main Blacknor cliffs.Approach (see page 61) - From the...
5
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and down

15 mins

Death of Cool Area
The first walls feature a number of large blocky roofs and some excellent long pitches on good...
13
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and down

12 mins

Seattle Be the Day Area
The first walls have some large blocky roofs and a number of excellent, long routes on good rock....
14
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and down

12 mins

Captain Klutz Area
This section of the cliff has some excellent long routes on good rock. The conglomerate at the...
7
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and down

15 mins

Wolfgang Forever Area
A long and sparsely featured wall that has a good selection of wall pitches in the 7s. The rock...
12
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and down

15 mins

Reptile Smile Area
A wall of absolutely stunning flowstone and one of Portland's finest sections of crag. The...
19
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and down

15 mins

What do these symbols mean?