Mallorca's Cova del Diablo is a masterpiece of architecture, an eye-catching monument to what is conceivable in the fantastical world of DWS. It would be fair to say it's almost certainly the best-formed slice of DWS rock yet found on the planet: a huge, streaked amphitheatre of pocketed limestone, poised above a deep sea of green. It's quite breathtaking, especially on first acquaintance. Of course nothing's that perfect and Diablo has its fair share of snags, just like any crag. It's a little too high and the exits can be tricky, especially when the sea is rough. The routes themselves offer a profusion of pockets and buckets, the angle generally dictates the grade, as the holds are almost always huge! It's worth mentioning that the cove itself, and especially the harder, steeper routes, are prone to considerable condensation in the summer months, so recommended is a later visit, around September-October, when the sun is lower. Also of note is the fact that almost all of the routes here have a crux at less than two-thirds height.
Routes
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35 sport routes (5...8a+) 1 dws route (6b) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents | |||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| Surfing Bird Area This left (west) end of the crag provides a good selection of grades, and the finish of the girdle... |
12 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Level 2 mins |
Dry in the Rain Windy 0 | 242 |
| The Lobster Area The central section of this fantastic wall gives more mega-quality routes and more buckets. |
12 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Level 2 mins |
Dry in the Rain Windy 0 | 244 |
| White Noise Area At this end of the crag you will find the usual buckets and pockets, but with a sudden change in... |
12 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Level 2 mins |
Windy 0 | 247 |
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