Pianokrakken (the Piano Stool) is one of the most popular cliffs in the guide; easy accessibility, great outward views, a good spread of grades, quality rock and some excellent lines - it isn't surprising that many folks make their first contact with Lofoten rock here. The routes are multi-pitch but generally the stances are good, as is the protection, hence the place is popular for instruction. Towering above is peak of Sørfjellet which throws a pillar down towards the sea. The south face of this is known as Maurpillaren (Ants' Pillar) - a tall steep slab rising above a cracked base. There are a few isolated routes on the northern side of the pillar, including the Lofoten's hardest roof crack Minnerisset, 9-. Also covered in this section is the single pitch crag Svenskaveggan with its mixture of sport and trad routes.
Routes
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26 trad routes (N4...N9-) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents |       | ||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other |
| Northern Buttresses As the Henningsvær road heads round the bend from Røyvika it passes a series of ribs and buttress... |
4 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Uphill 0 mins |
Windy |
| Maurpillaren (Pillar of the Ants) This is the tall slabby pillar rising above a lower face seamed with cracks,... |
5 | Trad |
Sun to mid-afternoon |
Uphill 20 mins |
Windy |
| West Face A good places for starters as there is a classic easy route on the West Face and two well-protected... |
9 | Trad |
Sun from mid-morning |
Uphill 5 mins |
Windy |
| South Face A good collection of climbs on this fine face which overlooks the causeway across the seaward end... |
10 | Trad |
Sun to mid-afternoon |
Uphill 5 mins |
Windy |
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