PIANOKRAKKEN


Pianokrakken (the Piano Stool) is one of the most popular cliffs in the guide; easy accessibility, great outward views, a good spread of grades, quality rock and some excellent lines - it isn't surprising that many folks make their first contact with Lofoten rock here. The routes are multi-pitch but generally the stances are good, as is the protection, hence the place is popular for instruction. Towering above is peak of Sørfjellet which throws a pillar down towards the sea. The south face of this is known as Maurpillaren (Ants' Pillar) - a tall steep slab rising above a cracked base. There are a few isolated routes on the northern side of the pillar, including the Lofoten's hardest roof crack Minnerisset, 9-. Also covered in this section is the single pitch crag Svenskaveggan with its mixture of sport and trad routes.

Routes

26 trad routes (N4...N9-)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Northern Buttresses
As the Henningsvær road heads round the bend from Røyvika it passes a series of ribs and buttress...
4
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

0 mins

Maurpillaren
(Pillar of the Ants) This is the tall slabby pillar rising above a lower face seamed with cracks,...
5
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

20 mins

West Face
A good places for starters as there is a classic easy route on the West Face and two well-protected...
9
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

5 mins

South Face
A good collection of climbs on this fine face which overlooks the causeway across the seaward end...
10
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

5 mins

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  • Latest Comments

    For PIANOKRAKKEN

    Pizzatyven
    "Pitch grades: (1) VS 4c, (2) VS 4c, (3) E1 5c, (4) HVS 5a, (5) HS 4b (overall E1..." 31/Jul top50

    Lys og skygge
    "I felt the first pitch more delicate. Take care in the crux, not every hold is v..." 29/May top50

    Applecake Arete
    "Nice Climb" 27/Sep top50

    Pianohandler Lunds rute
    "Great route, well worthy of it's top 50 status. Varied climbing. Top of pitch 3 ..." 26/Jul top50

    Ant Line
    "You can also continue the climbing along obvious crack lines to the summit of th..." 10/Jul

    Pizzatyven
    "P3 seems like 6, but perhaps harder for short climbers. P4 is more like 5. The r..." 17/Jul top50

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