PIANOKRAKKEN


Pianokrakken (the Piano Stool) is one of the most popular cliffs in the guide; easy accessibility, great outward views, a good spread of grades, quality rock and some excellent lines - it isn't surprising that many folks make their first contact with Lofoten rock here. The routes are multi-pitch but generally the stances are good, as is the protection, hence the place is popular for instruction.
Towering above is peak of Sørfjellet which throws a pillar down towards the sea. The south face of this is known as Maurpillaren (Ants' Pillar) - a tall steep slab rising above a cracked base. There are a few scattered routes to the north of the pillar, including the desperately hard crack of Minnerisset (9-).
Also covered in this section is the single pitch crag Svenskeveggen with its mixture of sport and trad routes - see page 106 for full details.

Routes

40 mixed routes (N4...N9-)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Sørfjellet
As the Henningsvær road heads round the bend from Rørvika it passes a series of ribs and buttresses...
4
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

10 mins

Maurpillaren
(Ant's Pillar) This is the tall slabby pillar rising above a lower face seamed with cracks, up and...
5
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

15 mins

West Face
A good places for starters as there is a classic easy route plus a few other interesting offerings....
10
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

5 mins

sheltered
South Face
A good collection of climbs on this fine face which overlooks the causeway across the seaward end...
11
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

5 mins

sheltered
Svenskeveggen
This small steep roadside crag has some bolted routes and trad crack climbs and is good for a short...
13
Trad and Sport
Sun and shade
Up and down

2 mins

sheltered
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