PRESTEN


Lofoten’s most famous cliff is known throughout Norway and it reputation has travelled further afield. Its sheer nose of granite rises 400 metres above the sea just to the north of Henningsvær in a single, majestic sweep. Vestpillaren (The West Pillar) the original route on the face, ascends a system of cracks and corners up the right-hand side of the nose. It is undoubtedly Lofoten’s best known and finest rock climb offering thirteen pitches of varied well protected climbing, up a devious but logical line and on superb rock throughout. Korstoget (The Crusade), and Reisen (The Journey) all forge their respective ways up the left-hand side of the Priest’s face. All the full length routes are either 11 or 12 pitches; so pick a day of good weather before starting on one of the climbs.

Routes

21 trad routes (N5+...N7+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Lille Presten
Hanging on the lower left shoulder of Presten is a fine pillar of rock, 130m high and known as the...
2
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins

Windy
Presten
Lofoten’s most famous cliff is known throughout Norway and it reputation has spread further afield....
14
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

10 mins

Windy
Harley Davidson Wall
A fine wall, north-facing and hidden in a steep gully between Gandalfveggen and Presten. There are...
5
Trad
Evening sun
Uphill

30 mins

Windy
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  • Latest Comments

    For PRESTEN

    Vestpillaren
    "Perfection - wonderful, sustained climbing all the way with only a few short tri..." 13/Jul top50

    Korstoget
    "On the crux pitch, after the 3rd bolt, go "right and up" rather than &..." 26/Jun top50

    Vestpillaren
    "Maybe good to know that the hard sections are always short and well protected. O..." 29/May top50

    Vestpillaren Original Start
    "We did the Original start the next day after climbing Vestpilaren normal start (..." 06/Aug

    Vestpillaren
    "Diagree with Richard. Pitches 4,5,6,and 10 are actually quite good especially pi..." 26/Jul top50

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