GANDALF


This near-roadside cliff is popular destination for Lofoten climbers, offering several classic routes at amenable grades. The routes are quite long - up to four pitches, the approach only takes a few minutes and there is an easy walk-off. Generally the rock is good - though the occasional loose block or flake needs care. The accessibility and the grade spread, plus the sunny aspect means that the cliff is popular and queues are not unheard of - though at least you can check you route before leaving the road!

Routes

26 trad routes (N5-...N8)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Live Aid
On the left-hand side of the face the crag disappears into a gloomy gully that only get the sun for...
5
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

5 mins

Seepage
sheltered
Tynne ting
The slabby central section of the cliff only has a small set of routes. They are all poorly...
3
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

5 mins

Gandalf
The fine broad buttress that makes up the main bulk of the cliff is home to many of its best routes...
7
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

5 mins

sheltered
Guns 'n' Roses
The right-hand side of the face swings round to form a steep wall. The classic of Guns 'n' Roses is...
9
Trad
Lots of sun!
 
sheltered
Silmarillion Wall
The right-ward extension of the Gandalf Wall forms a fine tall buttress of excellent orange...
4
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

20 mins

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  • Latest Comments

    For GANDALF

    Gandalf
    "The first pitch is quite polished. We went wrong on pitch 2, and ended up on Gun..." 08/Dec top50

    Gamle rev
    "Lofoten's finest E0? Great juggy climbing - lots of fun." 13/Jul top50

    Guns 'n' Roses
    "Dont go to far right in the first pitch, then its really good." 29/May top50

    Gamle rev
    "Peak HVS & Pembroke E1?" 28/Jun top50

    Silmarillion
    "The pegs on pitch 3 are all gone." 29/Jul

    Gandalf's kamin
    "Just wondering if the rout is 5+, or just a 5 ?" 15/Jun

    Gandalf
    "The original finish (straight up from the Eagle's Nest) is quite fun - probably ..." 25/May top50

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