BLACKNOR SOUTH


Blacknor South has had many good new additions with some particularly useful lower grade bolted routes. Below the main crag line are two very popular boulders with a great set of easier climbs.

Routes

2 trad routes (S...VS)
80 sport routes (2...7b)
1 dws route (E1)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Sharbutts Quarry
The first section of Blacknor South might be a bit short, but the climbs are on good rock, well...
11
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

8 mins

Sacred Angel Area
A fine wall of vertical rock, suited to those with a technical bent and strong fingers. Some of the...
18
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

12 mins

Medusa Falls Area
A superb wall with stunning flowstone that is also slightly less exposed to the weather than the...
24
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

12 mins

The Lunar Park
The Lunar Park consists of two boulders on the beach below Blacknor Central - The Solar and Lunar...
9
Sport
Sun from mid-morning
Downhill

20 mins

Tidal
Diamond Slabs
Two clean and well-bolted slabs that are popular with those after some easier lines in a lovely...
7
Sport
Sun from mid-morning
Downhill

15 mins

Triple Slabs
The third of the sea-level sectors is located 100m north of the Fallen Slab area (see opposite). It...
9
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

15 mins

Tidal
Fallen Slab
The Fallen Slab is located within the mass of huge boulders downstairs from the main Blacknor South...
5
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

15 mins

Tidal
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  • Latest Comments

    For BLACKNOR SOUTH

    Medusa Falls
    "Overated because it looks good. Slippy rock and unbalanced after the first few m..." 27/May top50

    Vertical Thrill
    "The belay in the large block at the top have shifted significantly in the last f..." 22/Aug

    Pining for Glossop
    "Much preferred this to sacred angel: pleasantly sustained and interesting moves...." 01/Jul

    Mystical Gill
    "A straight forward pull up onto the slab, then simply walk up on a nice grippy s..." 07/May

    Love in the Mist
    "Very pleasant route that finishes all too quickly. 6a *" 02/Apr

    To Wish the Impossible
    "Super climbing, crisp holds and a bit thuggy near the top. Easier than some Batt..." 05/Feb top50

    Suburban Dave
    "Now missing a hold as I pulled off a head-sized piece of rock near the start..." 19/Jun

    Diamond Geezer
    "There's now a new route to the left of this starting with an overhang, we reckon..." 13/Jun

    Well Done Poppet
    "Loose belay bolts replaced." 29/Mar

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