THE COAST


The spectacular section of coast between Henningsvær and Kalle is one with a huge amount of potential - the small set of routes described here is just a taster. The approach to the more remote cliffs is a little laborious though - a friendly fisherman might be a useful.
Around the first major headland are the hidden bays of Geitvika and of Gullvika. The latter is superbly situated and well hidden at the base of the long gully that falls from the col between Festvågtinden and Budalstinden. Around Geitvika are three areas that have seen a little development, and beyond them the rock goes on and on.
Ed Webster's 1994 Lofoten guide referred to the first developed bit of rock, with the route Pan, as Gullvika svaet (Golden Bay Slab) though the slab actually overlooks the smaller Geitvika (Goat Bay) just to the west. We have decided that probably the least confusing option is to rename the cliff now rather than let the error roll on down the years.
It is said that the traverse of the coast between Henningsvær and Kalle is a great outing that only takes a couple of hours. It may be worth investigating on a rest day - expect to spot loads of new routes.

Routes

Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Jomfru pillaren
On rounding the first headland an impressive barrel-shaped buttress appears high up on the left....
2
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
Geitvika
Set above the right-hand side of the small valley, and almost opposite Jomfru pillaren, is a...
4
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

20 mins

Hamlet Wall
Beyond Geitvika is a rocky ridge that runs down the hillside towards the sea and tucked in beyond...
5
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

15 mins

sheltered
Migan pillaren
An extensive and impressive section of rock which is the seaward slope of Kvandalstinden. Only two...
3
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and down

30 mins

Windy
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  • Latest Comments

    For THE COAST

    Migan pillaren
    "Changed from ** to N6+ **, no votes" 27/May

    Vårkåt
    "Back to Varkat: Steep and Solid. Top10, for sure. The first pitch is pretty e..." 14/Jul

    Pan
    "An excellent route on clean rock with great sea views. The crux pitch (the 2nd) ..." 28/Jul

    Vårkåt
    "Regarding "Den sista Sommeren": We did probably the same last pitch as..." 26/Jul

    Shark Ride
    "Two cracking pitches of great contrast. Good moves on the 1st pitch lead to a sh..." 22/Aug

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