Paradiset is located just to the south of the tiny fishing village of Kalle, 5km along the coast as the gull flies from Henningsvær. It is a superb area of granite cliffs and boulders set beside the sparkling sea, with distant views of the mysterious mountains of the mainland. Paradise is one of Lofoten’s most popular climbing destinations for a variety of reasons; the high-friction quick-drying rock, a great collection of easier climbs, the seascape, the impressive views of Vågakallen soaring high above, the beautiful jamming cracks and the existence of wild camping close to the cliffs. Traditionally many of Paradiset’s climbs have not been named or documented, though this policy has been slightly inconsistent over the years. This lack of information, combined with the complex nature of the various gullies, walls and boulders, has meant that climbers have tended to focus on the obvious cliffs missing out on some great routes elsewhere. This time we have described most of the major routes although there are certainly more that have been done over the years. In some cases we have made up names for these routes to give them a bit of character and uniqueness. If the documenting of these routes with their new names offends, please feel free to ignore them and go exploring, getting lost among the rocks, sun, rain and surf of Paradiset - just as it ever was.
Routes
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63 trad routes (N3...N8+) 1 sport route (4+) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents | |||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other |
| Paradiset West Boulders These the large boulders must have fallen from the flanks of Vågakallen aeons ago. They are home to... |
5 | Trad |
Sun to mid-afternoon |
Up and down 20 mins |
|
| Dammen (The Lake) A short slabby wall contains three short but excellent jamming cracks plus some harder stuff. Sadly... |
8 | Trad |
Sun to mid-afternoon |
Up and down 20 mins |
|
| Backside Gully The gully crossed between the Main Cliff and Paradise West contains a couple of steep crack pitches... |
2 | Trad |
No sun |
Up and down 15 mins |
Seepage |
| Main Cliff A fine wall tapering down towards the sea, which offers some excellent short routes on great rock.... |
14 | Trad |
Morning sun |
Up and down 15 mins |
|
| Svenske diedret and Lille veggen This short wall with its compelling central groove-line is passed on the way to the Main Cliff. To... |
7 | Trad |
Morning sun |
Up and down 10 mins |
|
| Butter Arms This pseudo-boulder is actually the end of a rocky bluff overlooking the lake and wild camping... |
5 | Trad |
Sun and shade |
Level 10 mins |
|
| Dashboard Light Opposite Living in Paradise and behind and left of the Butter Arms boulder is a fine slab, 40m high... |
4 | Trad |
Morning sun |
Up and down 10 mins |
|
| 'X' Marks the Spot This wide wall has a small selection of climbs in a sunny setting. The X-shaped cracks identify the... |
5 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Up and down 10 mins |
|
| Living in Paradise A set of sea cliff climbs which are worth seeking out for some fine climbing in a secluded setting.... |
5 | Trad |
Morning sun |
Up and down 10 mins |
Seepage |
| Demonstranten This small collection of climbs is situated to the south of the approach path to Butter Arms and... |
8 | Trad |
Early morning sun |
Uphill 10 mins |
|
| Vågarisset The impressive buttress above Paradise is home to a pair of infrequently climbed routes. There is... |
2 | Trad |
Sun to mid-afternoon |
Uphill 30 mins |
Windy |
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