PARADISET


Paradiset is located just to the southwest of the tiny fishing village of Kalle, 5km along the coast as the gull flies from Henningsvær. It is a superb area of granite cliffs and boulders set beside the sparkling sea, with distant views of the mysterious mountains of the mainland. Paradise is one of Lofoten's most popular climbing destinations for a variety of reasons; the high-friction quick-drying rock, a great collection of easier climbs, the seascape, the impressive views of Vågakallen soaring high above, the beautiful jamming cracks and the wild camping close to the cliffs.
Traditionally many of Paradiset's climbs have not been named or documented, though this policy has been slightly inconsistent over the years. This lack of information, combined with the complex nature of the various gullies, walls and boulders, has meant that climbers have tended to focus on the obvious cliffs, missing out on some great routes elsewhere. This time we have described most of the major routes although there are certainly more that have been done over the years. In some cases we have made up names for these routes to give them a bit of character and uniqueness. If the documenting of these routes with their new names offends, please feel free to ignore them and go exploring, getting lost among the rocks, sun, rain and surf of Paradiset; just as it ever was.

Routes

2 trad routes (N5+...N6+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Vågarisset
The impressive buttress above Paradise is home to a pair of infrequently climbed routes. There is...
2
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

40 mins

Dosethrisset
These large boulders must have fallen from the flanks of Vågakallen aeons ago. They are home to a...
5
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

20 mins

sheltered
Dammen
(The Lake) A short slabby wall with three excellent jamming cracks plus some harder stuff. Sadly...
8
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

20 mins

sheltered
Backside Gully
The gully crossed between the Main Cliff and Dosethrisset contains a couple of steep cracks that...
2
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and down

20 mins

sheltered
Main Cliff
A fine wall tapering down towards the sea, which offers some excellent short routes on great rock....
14
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and down

15 mins

sheltered
Svenske diedret and Lille veggen
This short wall with its compelling central grooveline is passed on the way to the Main Cliff. The...
7
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

10 mins

sheltered
Butter Arms
This pseudo-boulder is actually the end of a rocky bluff overlooking the lake and wild camping...
4
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and down

10 mins

sheltered
Dashboard Light
Opposite Living in Paradise and behind and left of the Butter Arms boulder, is a fine slab - 40m...
4
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and down

10 mins

sheltered
'X' Marks the Spot
This wide wall has a small selection of climbs in a sunny setting. The X-shaped cracks identify the...
5
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and down

10 mins

sheltered
Living in Paradise
A set of sea cliff climbs which are worth seeking out for some fine climbing in a secluded setting....
5
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and down

10 mins

sheltered
Demonstranten
This small collection of climbs is situated to the south of the approach path to Butter Arms and...
8
Trad
Early morning sun
Up and down

10 mins

sheltered
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