Paradiset is located just to the south of the tiny fishing village of Kalle, 5km along the coast as the gull flies from Henningsvær. It is a superb area of granite cliffs and boulders set beside the sparkling sea, with distant views of the mysterious mountains of the mainland. Paradise is one of Lofoten’s most popular climbing destinations for a variety of reasons; the high-friction quick-drying rock, a great collection of easier climbs, the seascape, the impressive views of Vågakallen soaring high above, the beautiful jamming cracks and the existence of wild camping close to the cliffs. Traditionally many of Paradiset’s climbs have not been named or documented, though this policy has been slightly inconsistent over the years. This lack of information, combined with the complex nature of the various gullies, walls and boulders, has meant that climbers have tended to focus on the obvious cliffs missing out on some great routes elsewhere. This time we have described most of the major routes although there are certainly more that have been done over the years. In some cases we have made up names for these routes to give them a bit of character and uniqueness. If the documenting of these routes with their new names offends, please feel free to ignore them and go exploring, getting lost among the rocks, sun, rain and surf of Paradiset - just as it ever was.

ROUTES

63 trad routes (N3...N8+) 1 sport route (4+) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents

Buttress (click for routes)	No. of Routes	Route Type	Sunshine or shade	Approach walk	Other
Paradiset West Boulders These the large boulders must have fallen from the flanks of Vågakallen aeons ago. They are home to...	5			20 mins
Dammen (The Lake) A short slabby wall contains three short but excellent jamming cracks plus some harder stuff. Sadly...	8			20 mins
Backside Gully The gully crossed between the Main Cliff and Paradise West contains a couple of steep crack pitches...	2			15 mins
Main Cliff A fine wall tapering down towards the sea, which offers some excellent short routes on great rock....	14			15 mins
Svenske diedret and Lille veggen This short wall with its compelling central groove-line is passed on the way to the Main Cliff. To...	7			10 mins
Butter Arms This pseudo-boulder is actually the end of a rocky bluff overlooking the lake and wild camping...	5			10 mins
Dashboard Light Opposite Living in Paradise and behind and left of the Butter Arms boulder is a fine slab, 40m high...	4			10 mins
'X' Marks the Spot This wide wall has a small selection of climbs in a sunny setting. The X-shaped cracks identify the...	5			10 mins
Living in Paradise A set of sea cliff climbs which are worth seeking out for some fine climbing in a secluded setting....	5			10 mins
Demonstranten This small collection of climbs is situated to the south of the approach path to Butter Arms and...	8			10 mins
Vågarisset The impressive buttress above Paradise is home to a pair of infrequently climbed routes. There is...	2			30 mins
		What do these symbols mean?

Living in Paradise
"Excellent crack route, good fun!" 06/Apr

Vågarisset
"I would call it an off-width crack..." 10/Aug

By the Dashboard Light
"Bold! Didn't really manage to protect the first half (some aliens, but I didn't..." 28/Jul

X-crement
"An OK route in my opinion. :o)" 21/Jul

X-crement
"That's because we shifted most of it! Chris" 16/Jul

X-crement
"Not such a bad route in my opinion. Hardly any loose rock..." 16/Jul

By the Dashboard Light
"Maybe some small off-set cams can do the trick on the run-out middle section? It..." 06/Jul

Master Class
"Tricky and sustained. It finishes up the right-hand crack not the left one. Shor..." 02/Jun

Gelbe kante
"And I have photos of Toby leading it. I do remember that he was confident enough..." 13/Mar

Gelbe kante
"I led this in 2002. Very good climbing but scary to finish if you have any doub..." 13/Mar

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