With its huge rock precipices on almost every side, Austvågøy’s dominant and most beautiful mountain presents an impressive and daunting challenge. Any ascent to its remote summit is an experience not soon forgotten, especially if the climb is made in clear and sunny weather, as it should be for safety. The summit panorama of sea, sky and neighbouring peaks, with the islands of Vestvågøy, Flakstadøy and Moskenesøy to the south west, and the Norwegian mainland to the south, is truly unforgettable. Attempting the peak in poor weather is a bad idea; route finding on the upper sections of the mountain is difficult enough even on clear days. The peak offers a variety of technical routes as well, ranging from the standard classic scramble of Sydveggen, which is also the normal descent. To the Yosemite-like (always excluding the weather of course) Storpillaren, up the North Face. This latter route set the standard for many years but this has now been eclipsed by the huge lines of Storm Pillar and Freya over to the left.
Routes
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8 trad routes (N4+...N8) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents |      | ||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other |
| Myggapillaren Myggapillaren is the left-hand and more elegant of the two clean pillars on the face of Vågakallen... |
2 | Trad |
No sun |
Seepage Windy | |
| Storpillaren Once known for obvious reasons as 'The Bonatti Pillar of Lofoten', this massive arrow-head of sheer... |
5 | Trad |
No sun |
Uphill 60 mins |
Seepage Windy |
| Nordryggen Lofoten’s best low-grade 'Alpine' rock climb. An excellent tour of Vågakallen can be had by... |
1 | Trad |
No sun |
Uphill 90 mins |
Seepage Windy |
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