WALLSEND NORTH


The largest cliff on Portland is the huge arc of Wallsend Cove which has two distinct sections - North and South. The routes here combine some superb climbing with bundles of atmosphere. The routes at Wallsend North are set back from the sea, in a short series of bays; varying from around 10m to 20m high, with some larger walls toward the centre of the cove. The climbs at Wallsend Cove span the grades well, providing many climbs that cater for most teams visiting the area.

Routes

1 sport route (7a)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
So Hardcore Area
Before the main cliffs start at Wallsend, there are a couple of isolated walls. Although very...
11
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

10 mins

Unsung Area
A friendly bay with some short and intense test-pieces on high quality rock. It is situated high...
24
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

10 mins

Acid Jazz Area
A fine, open face that, rather alarmingly, is gaining height due to slippage of the earth and...
16
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

12 mins

Teenage Lust Area
Some well-positioned routes above an elevated ledge.Approach - Drive through Weston and, at a...
11
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

16 mins

The Rampart
A strip of excellent rock perched high above the beach which provides superbly-positioned and...
15
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

18 mins

Seaside Slab
Under the main cliff-line is a large slab of good rock above the boulder beach. This has been...
4
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

18 mins

Sweet Smell of Success Area
A really good section of cliff with a handful of classic pitches. The base of the crag is grassy,...
19
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

18 mins

Bladerunner Area
This section of cliff occasionally suffers mudslides in the winter and as a result the routes can...
10
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

20 mins

Downhill Spiral Area
The Downhill Spiral Area routes start from a raised grass bank beneath heavily-stained black walls...
17
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

20 mins

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