Coastguard South displays a wide grade range with routes for everybody, with bags of seaside atmosphere. Regular wave cleaning has left a huge crag of weathered rock with the main feature being the fantastic sheet of organ pipe flowstone on the Quick as Rainbows Area.

Photo: Forensic Scene (7a+) Coastguard South, Portland © Mark Glaister

ROUTES

1 trad route (E3) 68 sport routes (6a...7c+) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents

Buttress (click for routes)	No. of Routes	Route Type	Sunshine or shade	Approach walk	Other	Page
Grip '89 Area This excellent area is easy to reach and has some great rock. Sadly the central section fell down...	7			12 mins		112
Manhattan Skyline Area The continuation wall running right from the Grip ‘89 Area was initially ignored but has now had a...	11			15 mins		113
Xavier's Wall Area A fine wall with a handful of the best easier routes on the Isle, plus a few steep lines through...	12			17 mins		114
Bad Moon Rising Area Lots of long, sustained wall climbs and some mean roofs are the main ingredients of this section of...	15			20 mins		116
Quick as Rainbows Area A magnificent wall of immaculate flowstone. It sometimes suffers from seepage, can be dusty and has...	16			20 mins		118
Azymuth Area The final batch of routes on Coastguard South are on a superb steep buttress which ends at a...	8			25 mins	Some routes - 1 Feb to 31 Jul	119
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Tennessee
"This route is fantastic, as good as (if not better) than Dominatrix at Kilnsey, ..." 26/Jun

Full Fathom Five
"Agree with all the comments, brittle 6c plus lower wall, then 15 feet of good mo..." 28/Sep

California Dreams
"Awful route now missing its first bolt as well. I wish I had read these comments..." 14/Sep

Time Bomb
"i dont agree did this today and thought it was a solid 7a with the lower moves b..." 27/Jun

L'Odyssee Noire
"The start is very hard - I thought about V3 - and the bulge higher up involves a..." 22/Jun

American Beauty
"American Beauty has certainly had a face lift.. 3 bolts missing along with the r..." 16/May

Xavier's Wall
"cool and varied route, pretty 'out there' climbing for the grade, much harder if..." 01/Jun

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