On the east coast of the southern tip of the Isle are four small areas nestling under the lighthouse. Barrel and Hidden Zawns are pleasant little bouldering areas above pebble and shingle beaches. They offer some intense and powerful problems on slopers and tiny crimps or pockets. The beach level can vary in height and the problems are at their best when the beach is low. Sector Pom Pom offers a similar style of extended boulder problems and short power-packed routes situated in another delightful little bay with a frozen wave of grit-like stone pitted with infrequent pockets. Sadly neither place holds anything for beginners but both are great for a spot of sunbathing or a picnic and are only 200m from the car park.
Routes
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29 trad routes (HS...E5) 44 sport routes (3...7c+) 22 boulder problems (V0-...V9) 40 dws routes (HVS...V2) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents | |||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| Pulpit Rock The much-photographed Pulpit Rock now has several lines on it plus one illegal bolt route that is... |
10 | DWS |
Afternoon sun |
Level 3 mins |
Tidal Windy | 80 |
| Hidden Zawn This attractive little zawn has a small number of good but high-ball boulder problems. A mat is... |
7 | Boulder |
Afternoon sun |
Level 5 mins |
Tidal Windy | - |
| Barrel Zawn This is a neat clean-cut wave of rock in an isolated and reccessed zawn. Good conditions and a... |
13 | Boulder |
Morning sun |
Level 5 mins |
Tidal Windy | - |
| Deep Zawn The best swiming and diving spot on the east coast of Portland is the narrow inlet under the red... |
8 | DWS |
Morning sun |
Tidal Windy | 81 | |
| Sector Pom Pom A pleasant bay with some short, hard routes that are very bouldery, including the fabulous traverse... |
23 | Sport |
Morning sun |
Level 5 mins |
Tidal Windy | 188 |
| Too Funky Beach Area A secluded little bay with a couple of sport lines. |
12 | DWS |
Morning sun |
Level 10 mins |
Tidal Windy | 188 |
| Ixtlan Area A good area of deep water solos on an atmospheric series of steep walls and buttresses. Only a... |
15 | DWS |
Morning sun |
Level 15 mins |
Tidal Windy | 190 |
| Crab Party Area A brilliant area of bicep-busting deep water solo pump-outs on excellent rock. Not for the faint... |
16 | DWS |
Morning sun |
Level 15 mins |
Tidal Windy | 191 |
| Cave Hole Area This area has some of the best roof climbing on Portland. In winter a spectacular cascade pours... |
12 | Sport |
Morning sun |
Level 15 mins |
Tidal Windy | 192 |
| Octopus Weed Area These are the tiered, overhanging bays immediately south of the next jib, on from the one above the... |
19 | Sport |
Morning sun |
Level 15 mins |
Tidal Windy | 193 |
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