LIGHTHOUSE AREA


On the east coast of the southern tip of the Isle are four small areas nestling under the lighthouse. Barrel and Hidden Zawns are pleasant little bouldering areas above pebble and shingle beaches. They offer some intense and powerful problems on slopers and tiny crimps or pockets. The beach level can vary in height and the problems are at their best when the beach is low. Sector Pom Pom offers a similar style of extended boulder problems and short power-packed routes situated in another delightful little bay with a frozen wave of grit-like stone pitted with infrequent pockets. Sadly neither place holds anything for beginners but both are great for a spot of sunbathing or a picnic and are only 200m from the car park.

Routes

29 trad routes (HS...E5)
44 sport routes (3...7c+)
22 boulder problems (V0- 4b...V9 7C)
40 dws routes (HVS...V2 5c)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Pulpit Rock
The much-photographed Pulpit Rock now has several lines on it plus one illegal bolt route that is...
10
DWS
Afternoon sun
Level

3 mins

Tidal
Hidden Zawn
This attractive little zawn has a small number of good but high-ball boulder problems. A mat is...
7
Boulder
Afternoon sun
Level

5 mins

Tidal
Barrel Zawn
This is a neat clean-cut wave of rock in an isolated and reccessed zawn. Good conditions and a...
13
Boulder
Morning sun
Level

5 mins

Tidal
Deep Zawn
The best swiming and diving spot on the east coast of Portland is the narrow inlet under the red...
8
DWS
Morning sun
 
Tidal
Sector Pom Pom
A pleasant bay with some short, hard routes that are very bouldery, including the fabulous traverse...
23
Sport
Morning sun
Level

5 mins

Tidal
Too Funky Beach Area
A secluded little bay with a couple of sport lines.
12
DWS
Morning sun
Level

10 mins

Tidal
Ixtlan Area
A good area of deep water solos on an atmospheric series of steep walls and buttresses. Only a...
15
DWS
Morning sun
Level

15 mins

Tidal
Crab Party Area
A brilliant area of bicep-busting deep water solo pump-outs on excellent rock. Not for the faint...
16
DWS
Morning sun
Level

15 mins

Tidal
Cave Hole Area
This area has some of the best roof climbing on Portland. In winter a spectacular cascade pours...
12
Sport
Morning sun
Level

15 mins

Tidal
Octopus Weed Area
These are the tiered, overhanging bays immediately south of the next jib, on from the one above the...
19
Sport
Morning sun
Level

15 mins

Tidal
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  • Latest Comments

    For LIGHTHOUSE AREA

    Ixtlan
    "wonderful route. quite sustained but there's a huge sitting rest after the trave..." 30/Sep

    Sugar Daddy
    "drop the + so 7a. Maybe two 6a moves." 05/Jan

    Bare Reputation
    "Of course! All subsequent ascents should follow suit." 08/Aug

    Bare Reputation
    "For archiving sake was the first ascent done naked?" 24/Jul

    Marine Boy Direct
    "This route is in the current guide, is it not? So are some of the other routes i..." 01/Jul

    Bleating Nincompoops
    "Great climb, sharp rock, lots of friction. Definitely wait until the tide has st..." 26/May

    Penny Lane
    "Its in my current guidebook atE1 5b." 13/Nov

    Problem 3
    "Easily the best problem here. Nice moves, good rock. Not that reachy." 20/Sep

    Temporary Lifestyle
    "First DWS, brilliant." 18/Aug

    Aquamarina
    "Excellent route. Very crimpy indeed." 13/Aug

    Ixtlan
    "IXTLAN!!!!!!! i found you!!! dont be put of by the high crux, but do not take li..." 10/Aug

    Crab Party
    "Onsited by the oldest Porter brother and flashed by the younger!! Mega cool rout..." 08/Aug

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