Beeston Cliff is a fine series of interesting and secluded bays with some short, quality routes on excellent rock and some particularly good easier and mid-grade lines. With the exception of one wall, the climbs are bolted, with a number doubling up as decent deep water solos. This is a quiet area that is often overlooked and is consequently worth considering on busy Bank Holidays. The Golden Pants Area and Limekiln Cave have some good technical sport routes although the latter area is quite tidal. The Bay of Rainbows is great for soloing or easy routes on fantastic flowstone. The exception to this friendly picture is The Great Escape Wall which is a totally different ball game, having one very atmospheric staple-bolted traverse as well as being home to some very serious shallow water solos.

ROUTES

11 trad routes (E1...E7) 31 sport routes (5...7b+) 13 dws routes (E3...7a+) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents

Buttress (click for routes)	No. of Routes	Route Type	Sunshine or shade	Approach walk	Other	Page
Golden Pants Area This outlying area is situated 200m south of the main cliffs, and a similar distance north of Cave...	10			20 mins		142
Limekiln Cave Area This is the series of low and tidal cliffs which run south from the Great Escape Area. Most of the...	17			20 mins		143
The Great Escape Wall This snaking wall is partially tidal and has a number of unusual lines, some of which are serious...	12			20 mins		144
Bay of Rainbows A fine wall with some pleasant and relatively easy bolted routes, plus a few scary solos rising...	16			20 mins		145
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Rags to Rags, Rust to Rust
"Managed to do this on the only day in 5 years that the tide was low enough for s..." 25/Mar

Krakatoa
"The climb only has two bolts. Crux is just before second bolt, not really that h..." 15/Mar

Strategem
"Just one/two hardish moves. Good Little wall climb, as are the other routs on th..." 17/Oct

Popacatapetl
"Seemed to have one very tough move so 6a, although I guess it is only a short ro..." 23/Apr

Rags to Rags, Rust to Rust
"Think this one requires an uber low tide. It was submerged in about a metre of w..." 23/Aug

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