The south-facing line of low limestone crags that stretch out into the Bristol Channel offer up some intriguing and esoteric climbs. Brean Down started its climbing life as an out-of-the-way trad venue but it has now become popular as a fine sport climbing location, tucked away on its own above a busy beach that looks out over extensive tidal flats. It is a suntrap that suffers from little seepage, and offers the chance of warm conditions even in the middle of winter.
The sport climbs at Boulder Cove are very popular and are always chalked-up, whilst the trad climbs are far more serious undertakings and see little traffic and, as a result, have become slightly vegetated. The traditional lines require the use of stake-belays in the steep sandy slope above the crag.
The limestone is not as reliable as that found elsewhere locally, and great care is needed with the placing of gear, and use of the sometimes-fragile holds. Having said this, the routes in this book are on the best rock at Brean Down.
Routes
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3 trad routes (VS...E5) 19 sport routes (6a+...8b) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents |       | ||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| Boulder Cove An excellent, beautifully located wall of compact limestone with a number of worthwhile sport... |
19 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Level 5 mins |
Windy | 79 |
| Great Corner and Ocean Wall Midway along the crag is the striking line of Great Corner whilst the Ocean Wall is directly above... |
3 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 4 mins |
Tidal Windy | 82 |
| What do these symbols mean? | ||||||
