The section of coast near Southwell and the large Cheyne Weares car park, has a number of different cliffs which offer contrasting styles and grades of climbing. Godnor Far North has been developed into a low-to-mid-grade sport route playground and the Neddyfields Main Cliff offers routes in a similar vein. Both these cliffs were mainly developed by members of Basingstoke M.C. and they have become extremely popular although it should be noted that Neddyfields can be over-run by outdoor groups at times. The biggest crag in the area is Cheyne Cliff which looks scruffy from a distance but in fact harbours some fine flowstone faces and orange coral. The routes here are mostly for the fitter climber looking for ultimate stamina tests. The Lost Valley is a sheltered location in a deep inland ravine with an eerie quiet atmosphere. It also suffers from ivy growth from time to time but this is usually cleared away by the locals especially now that it is been developed as a good hard bouldering venue as well. There is more bouldering on the small vertical wall above the Neddyfields Main crag.

ROUTES

1 trad route (E1) 74 sport routes (3...7c+) 47 boulder problems (V0-...V9) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents

Buttress (click for routes)	No. of Routes	Route Type	Sunshine or shade	Approach walk	Other	Page
Neddyfields Bouldering This short accessible wall of superb rock receives morning sun and is very sheltered from westerly...	40			3 mins		148
Godnor Far North Godnor Far North has some useful quick-ticks that are very popular with those looking for easier...	25			10 mins		150
Neddyfields Main The Neddyfields Main Cliff is a popular morning crag with plenty of friendly grades. It is quick to...	16			5 mins		152
Cheyne Cliff A superb wall covered in great flowstone. The harder routes have been used by locals for training...	16			10 mins	Most routes - 1 March to 30 Sept	154
Dungecroft Quarry A very minor venue, short and with only three routes but worth a visit if you are into...	3			3 mins		156
Lost Valley A hidden ravine with a good selection of sheltered sport routes. The left-hand side of this wall...	22			3 mins		157
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The Martyr
"Very pleasant little climb with intricate climbing through the crux." 25/Jul

Training for Hubble
"Pretty poor. Crux was clipping the 2nd bolt I seem to remember." 20/Jul

The Accelerator
"this route has never ever seen 7a, more like 6b" 05/Dec

Rocket from the Crypt
"Agreed Darren this is an excellent route, short crux but right up there with ED,..." 14/Oct

Jasper
"Very cruxy, and even though I could just reach through I still thought the route..." 29/Sep

Ocean Boulevard
"Hard pull to get going, and then lovely climbing on great holds" 26/Sep

Detonator
"Crimpy lower section though not as strong a line as Road Rage. Great crux moves ..." 22/Sep

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