The low white line of sea cliff ‘under the light’ is the enchanting area of Subluminal. Subluminal is the place most folks head to for a first taste of Swanage steepness. The main reason for its popularity is the good selection of solid, short and amenably graded routes. Access is quick and there is a good ledge system running beneath the climbs that is well clear of the waves, giving the place a friendly atmosphere. Subluminal lies just west of the lighthouse and the Black Zawn, beneath open grass slopes. There is a clean-cut ledge above the climbs for gearing up and socialising, along with plentiful stakes for belays. Many of the climbs offer technical and fingery exercises as well as some bulging test-pieces in the Avernus Area. The Black Zawn is a place for the experienced only and has some of the best traditional pitches at Swanage in its confines. To its east are more routes worth searching out once the main classics have been ticked.

ROUTES

63 trad routes (D...E5) 11 dws routes (HVS...7c) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents

Buttress (click for routes)	No. of Routes	Route Type	Sunshine or shade	Approach walk	Other	Page
Baboon Area A good set of short routes starting from a non-tidal ledge. Plenty in the Severe to VS range.	14			10 mins		294
Stroof Area A good set of short routes starting from a non-tidal ledge. Some excellent low E-grade test-pieces.	12			10 mins		295
Freda Area More short and pleasant climbs above a non-tidal ledge. Several easy corners and cracks.	15			10 mins		296
Bird's Nest Bay Bird's Nest Bay is a small but inherently safe DWS zone, found in two small bays under the route...	9			10 mins		-
Avernus Area The last routes at Subluminal are harder and more serious undertakings. They start from boulders at...	8			10 mins		297
Black Zawn West The Black Zawn West is an enclosed atmospheric zawn with big, long routes requiring abseil...	6			10 mins		298
Black Zawn East The Black Zawn East is much more open than its western neighbour but the routes should still be...	10			10 mins		300
		What do these symbols mean?

Astrid
"The abseil is about 20m. Don't forget a prussik. There's a couple of old slings ..." 11/May

Face
"where exactly does this route go. There appear to be 2 seperate routes here. One..." 20/Apr

Battleship Bow
"No wonder there aren't any comments. This is a very serious proposition above a..." 13/Mar

Baboon
"VS 5a!? This was meant to be a warm down climb after a three day trip. Very diff..." 22/Nov

Puffin
"The boulder at the foot has shrunk (think it was there Aug 07). Can’t remember i..." 08/Oct

Juggler
"The CC description which describes climbing the headwall via "three small f..." 24/Aug

First Corner
"Good climbing and felt ok at HS 4b, which I think is what our guidebook put it a..." 22/Aug

Slip Road
"Not at all under-graded in my view. Getting over the bulge is quite tricky and t..." 28/Jul

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