The most classical of all the Calanques, a Mediterranean paradise that has suffered because of its beauty, it is best avoided on sunny summer weekends when the small beach can end up jammed with 'seekers of solitude'. The authorities have made access to the Calanque more difficult as the years have gone by, moving the nearest parking further away, though boat access from Cassis remains the easiest way in. Boats are not allowed to approach the beach, a commando assault will be required. The climbing here is excellent, varied and in a wonderful situation, though inevitably the most popular climbs have become polished in the 100 plus years climbers have been visiting the place. Many of the routes are only partly bolted, a light trad rack will be needed for these.
Routes
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45 sport routes (4...7b) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents |        | ||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| Le Pouce One of the first significant pieces of rock passed on the approach is a fine, grey wall high on the... |
6 | Sport |
Afternoon sun |
Downhill 35 mins |
0 | 92 |
| La Sirène Not to be mistaken with the Petite or the Grande Aiguilles, La Sirne is a tall, tapering buttress... |
8 | Sport |
Afternoon sun |
Downhill 35 mins |
0 | 94 |
| La Petite Aiguille and La Saphir Standing close to the beach is the 35m-high Petite Aiguille, and running up behind it is the... |
12 | Sport |
No sun |
Downhill 40 mins |
Windy 0 | 96 |
| Dalle de la Conversation A sunny wall rising above ledges with shady pines and a fine set of fingery face-climbs. |
4 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Downhill 45 mins |
0 | 98 |
| Doigt du Dieu The Finger of God is the prominent spire out on the left-hand side of the 'fjord'. It is reached by... |
4 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Downhill 45 mins |
0 | 99 |
| Face du Grand Rappel The most impressive piece of rock at En Vau by a mile is the long shadowy wall that forms the true... |
11 | Sport |
Early morning sun |
Downhill 40 mins |
0 | 100 |
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