The Verdon Gorge is one of Europe's prime climbing destinations; huge cliffs, magnificent rock, easy access, dramatic situations and an amiable climate for a good part of the year. The majority of the routes are reasonably well bolted, though a significant number of climbs, including several of the major classics, require the carrying of a light rack. Double ropes are sensible on any of the longer routes; whether or not to carry a rucksack, approach shoes, wind/waterproof, water etc. depends on weather conditions and team ability. Benightments are not that uncommon on the longer routes, the balance between speed and safety is a tricky one - as ever! If approaching routes from above, it makes sense to ensure you are in the right place before committing to the abseils. Almost all routes have their names painted at the top (on plaques or on the rock), but often these are faded or tricky to find, sometimes a bit of detective work is required to ensure you have the correct starting point. It is worth pointing out that many of the grades feel pretty stiff, though a large percentage of this can be linked to the awe-inspiring setting of many of the climbs. Having a grade or two in hand may be a good idea until you get the feel of the place.
Routes
|
168 sport routes (3...8b+) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents | |||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| Falaise de l'Imbut A huge intimidating cliff that thrusts forward as a massive jutting bastion, dropping straight to... |
5 | Sport |
Afternoon sun |
Downhill 5 mins |
Abseil 0 | 219 |
| Falaise du Belvédère des Malines An extensive cliff in a sunny position with a selection of easier climbs, a few harder lines and... |
6 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Roadside 40 mins |
0 | 220 |
| Falaise du Grand Eycharme A tall and imposing cliff that gets morning sun and afternoon shade. It only has a small set of... |
3 | Sport |
Morning sun |
Downhill 10 mins |
Abseil 0 | 222 |
| La Miroir du Fou A roadside crag that might be a major venue in a more rock-starved part of the world, here it... |
14 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Roadside 10 mins |
Windy 0 | 224 |
| Frimes et Chatiments At this point the cliffs are only about 120m high to the Jardin des Suisses, offering the chance of... |
16 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 5 mins |
Abseil 0 | 228 |
| Heure Zéro and Golem Another wide section of cliff with a huge array of routes - there are over 70 documented climbs on... |
8 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 5 mins |
Abseil 0 | 230 |
| La Fête des Nerfs A west-facing wall with a lot of routes. A couple of classics are covered here - consult the local... |
2 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 5 mins |
Abseil 0 | 232 |
| Rivière d'Argent A great selection of longer multi-pitch classics around half a dozen pitches long and a set of... |
28 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 5 mins |
Abseil Windy 0 | 234 |
| Le Belvédère de la Carelle Probably the most popular section of the whole cliff for the simple reason it is so accessible. The... |
14 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Roadside 5 mins |
Abseil Windy 0 | 236 |
| Papy on Sight Right under the Belvdre de la Carelle is a steep wall that faces up the gorge and flanked by... |
17 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Roadside 5 mins |
Abseil 0 | 238 |
| Pichenibule A magnificent shield of immaculate grey rock suspended above the void. There are many great climbs... |
13 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Level 5 mins |
Abseil 0 | 240 |
| Les Dalles Grises A big rugged slab of juggy rock with some very popular lower-grade climbs. To the right the steeper... |
9 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Level 5 mins |
Abseil 0 | 242 |
| Les Dalles Grises - Shorter Rout The wall that runs out at right-angles to the big grey slab is a popular venue with a collection of... |
11 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Level 5 mins |
Abseil Windy 0 | 244 |
| La Demande A small section of great routes that go the whole way - the full height from the bottom to top of... |
6 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 20 mins |
0 | 246 |
| Luna Bong Area Powerful lines, great rock, easy access (if you like hairy abseils) and of course some classic... |
10 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 5 mins |
Abseil 0 | 248 |
| Le Paroi du Duc The huge imposing cliff that grabs your attention from Couloir Sampson and the walk into the main... |
6 | Sport |
No sun |
Up and down 20 mins |
Windy 0 | 254 |
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