UPPER PEN TRWYN


Upper Pen Trwyn is the bright white ribbon of limestone that runs above and parallel to the Marine Drive and is the most popular climbing area on the Ormes. The climbing is extensive and is a mix of both traditional and sport climbing, the majority being single-pitch and in the mid to higher grades. Upper Pen Trwyn has many fine lines and this coupled with the quick-drying nature of the rock, roadside access and often relatively fine and warm weather make it a superb spot to head for. There is only one draw back and that is the access, which is restricted during holiday periods due to public safety concerns.

Routes

92 trad routes (VS...E6)
156 sport routes (5+...8b)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Dumbell Flyer
No description as yet.
26
Sport
    -
Mumbo Jumbo
No description as yet.
21
Sport
    -
Connor's-Cutaway
No description as yet.
13
Sport
    -
Lookout
No description as yet.
15
Sport
    -
Black Walls
No description as yet.
20
Sport
    -
Road End
No description as yet.
12
Sport
    -
Mayfair Wall
The Mayfair Wall is one of the showpiece crags of the area featuring a collection of superb and...
27
Sport
Morning sun
Roadside

0 mins

sheltered
Restricted Access
326
Testament to Pure Gold
The higher wall above the Marine Drive has a characteristic arched overhang - this is the Testament...
20
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

2 mins

sheltered
Restricted Access
332
Plumbline
A fine compact wall left of a large open corner. The route Plumbline takes the long groove in the...
5
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

1 min

sheltered
Restricted Access
334
Quicksilver
Another face of excellent rock with a set of quality trad and sport routes. Drive along the Marine...
12
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

1 min

sheltered
Restricted Access
335
Firefly
This is the rightmost section of the wall visible from Llandudno and is home to a high quality...
11
Trad and Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

1 min

sheltered
Restricted Access
336
Excursion
As the road rounds the bend there is a clean exposed wall almost directly above. If there is a wind...
13
Sport
Early morning sun
Roadside

0 mins

Restricted Access
338
The Deep Fix
A good spread of sport and trad lines that are a wise option on hot summer days although this...
14
Trad and Sport
No sun
Roadside

0 mins

Restricted Access
339
Chain Gang Wall
One of the best walls at Upper Pen Trwyn, which is laced with high quality trad and sport lines in...
9
Trad and Sport
No sun
Roadside

0 mins

Restricted Access
340
String of Pearls
A couple of popular walls that are the first to get the late afternoon sun. There are a few good...
9
Sport
Evening sun
Roadside

0 mins

sheltered
Restricted Access
342
Homo Sapien
The best section of cliff at this end of Upper Pen Trwyn is the bulging pillar of Homo Sapien left...
21
Sport
Evening sun
Roadside

0 mins

sheltered
Restricted Access
344
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