UPPER PEN TRWYN


Upper Pen Trwyn is the bright white ribbon of limestone that runs above and parallel to the Marine Drive and is the most popular climbing area on the Ormes. The climbing is extensive and is a mix of both traditional and sport climbing, the majority being single-pitch and in the mid to higher grades. Upper Pen Trwyn has many fine lines and this coupled with the quick-drying nature of the rock, roadside access and often relatively fine and warm weather make it a superb spot to head for. There is only one draw back and that is the access, which is restricted during holiday periods due to public safety concerns.

Routes

92 trad routes (VS...E6)
156 sport routes (5c...8b)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Dumbell Flyer
No description as yet.
26
Sport
   
Mumbo Jumbo
No description as yet.
21
Sport
   
Connor's-Cutaway
No description as yet.
13
Sport
   
Lookout
No description as yet.
15
Sport
   
Black Walls
No description as yet.
20
Sport
   
Road End
No description as yet.
12
Sport
   
Mayfair Wall
The Mayfair Wall is one of the showpiece crags of the area featuring a collection of superb and...
27
Sport
Morning sun
Roadside

0 mins

sheltered
Restricted Access
Testament to Pure Gold
The higher wall above the Marine Drive has a characteristic arched overhang - this is the Testament...
20
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

2 mins

sheltered
Restricted Access
Plumbline
A fine compact wall left of a large open corner. The route Plumbline takes the long groove in the...
5
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

1 min

sheltered
Restricted Access
Quicksilver
Another face of excellent rock with a set of quality trad and sport routes. Drive along the Marine...
12
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

1 min

sheltered
Restricted Access
Firefly
This is the rightmost section of the wall visible from Llandudno and is home to a high quality...
11
Trad and Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

1 min

sheltered
Restricted Access
Excursion
As the road rounds the bend there is a clean exposed wall almost directly above. If there is a wind...
13
Sport
Early morning sun
Roadside

0 mins

Restricted Access
The Deep Fix
A good spread of sport and trad lines that are a wise option on hot summer days although this...
14
Trad and Sport
No sun
Roadside

0 mins

Restricted Access
Chain Gang Wall
One of the best walls at Upper Pen Trwyn, which is laced with high quality trad and sport lines in...
9
Trad and Sport
No sun
Roadside

0 mins

Restricted Access
String of Pearls
A couple of popular walls that are the first to get the late afternoon sun. There are a few good...
9
Sport
Evening sun
Roadside

0 mins

sheltered
Restricted Access
Homo Sapien
The best section of cliff at this end of Upper Pen Trwyn is the bulging pillar of Homo Sapien left...
21
Sport
Evening sun
Roadside

0 mins

sheltered
Restricted Access
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  • Latest Comments

    For UPPER PEN TRWYN

    String of Pearls
    "The resin around the second bolt, which (just about) protects the crux if you fa..." 01/Jun

    Bauxed
    "If this is HVS then a wholesale revision of all UK grades is needed!" 19/May

    Private Investigations
    "Changed from E5 6b to E5 6b *, no votes" 11/Oct

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