STANAGE PLANTATION


The magical arena of the Plantation Area marks the beginning of the more continuous section of the climbing. Here the cliff reaches its greatest height on the Tower Face and the whole section is littered with great routes across the grades. It is also one of the most popular bouldering spots around particularly the jumble below Goliath's Groove, and the blocks below Paradise Wall.

Routes

288 trad routes (M...E8)
20 boulder problems (V0+ 5a...V11 8A)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Count's Buttress
Below the gap in the edge, where the Long Causeway links the Hope Valley with Sheffield, is the...
30
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

D.I.Y. and Surprise
A short face of lovely rock, though sadly with only a small collection of routes. Technicians who...
19
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

Outlook Buttress
Above the upper section of flagged path that runs from the Plantation car park to Stanage Pole, is...
13
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

Fern Crack
To the left of the slumped slab of Wall End is a fine tall buttress tucked away in the back of a...
14
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

Wall End Slab Area
An attractive slumped slab of rock with its eponymous venerable classic and some more recent...
9
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

Goliath's Groove
An attractive series of aretes and walls that include some of the very best offerings on the whole...
22
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

NTBTA Bouldering
The blocks below the edge are one of the most popular bouldering spots in the Peak District. The...
15
Boulder
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

Satin
A collection of short buttresses squeezed between the ever-popular and more imposing venues of...
14
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

Tower Face Area
The tallest wall on the cliff with routes to match. Tower Face Direct and Flight of Ideas are great...
24
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

The Strangler
A pair of secluded slabs with a set of hard face routes as well as a short Upper Tier which has a...
17
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

Hathersage Trip
A secluded wall with a couple of hard face routes, as well as a variety of easier stuff, including...
15
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

Pegasus Wall Area
On the left is the tall block with the desperate route of Unfamiliar up its front edge. This was...
16
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

Paradise Wall
A popular area with a good collection of routes in the Orange Spot zone, including some classic...
10
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

Millsom's Minion
A fine companion to Paradise Wall. Good for HVS to E3 routes offering hard starts on steep pocketed...
13
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

Straight Ahead
A couple of contrasting areas, a tiny slab with two technical outings, and a taller, more complex...
12
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

Wall Buttress
A fine piece of rock where Namenlos and Wall Buttress are popular ticks. The other climbs here see...
12
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

Calvary
A fine buttress with one of Stanage's finest routes: Calvary. With modern gear it should be safe...
13
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

The Unconquerables
Home to a trio of classic cracks including the peerless pitch of The Right Unconquerable, one of...
7
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

Away from it All
Between the ever-popular Unconquerables and Dover's Wall is a series of short buttresses that have...
33
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

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  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE PLANTATION

    Surprise
    "Astonishingly difficult." 09/Mar

    Tower Face
    "This route is getting harder as the left hand flake gets smaller. A good 18inch ..." 02/Aug

    The Watch-Tower
    ".....next!" 31/May

    The Watch-Tower
    "Total sandbag. If you keep to the left of the arete it is at least 5C with no pr..." 31/May

    Goliath's Groove
    "My first grit HVS insight lead on my first trad day of 2013. It felt like it was..." 06/May

    Shirley's Shining Temple
    "Correction to first ascent detail. John Allen did the route by the direct start ..." 05/Jul

    Saul's Arete
    "Surely HVS? I was a good deal more comfortable leading Fina than seconding this..." 11/Jun

    Counterfeit
    "Agreed. 'Siderunners' are easily placed from the route so should be graded for t..." 14/May

    Counterfeit
    "Like Count's Wall, just one hard move - sadly this one uses the same hold in com..." 09/May

    Amphitheatre Face
    "...or by [starting on a doubled pad and] bearing down on a couple of pebbles for..." 24/Apr

    The Archangel
    "Fantastic route, definitely need a bit of conviction but the moves aren't too ba..." 07/Dec

    The Archangel
    "Wonderful. A bit of psychological beta for those looking at this before an ascen..." 23/Nov

    Fern Groove
    "Bit of a fiddle getting the wire in after the crux. Another quality little route..." 19/Nov

    Outlook Buttress
    "Solid E1." 16/Oct

    Nightmare Slab
    "Harder than Daydreamer, due to the landing (or lack thereof). At E1 5c (as in ot..." 10/Sep

    Crossover
    "Worthwhile route with varied climbing. The bold slab isn't too hard and good cam..." 12/Jul

    Cinturato
    "This is one of those routes where, if you're cruising at E3, it'll seem like a p..." 19/Jun

    Paradise Crack
    "Mates first lead on grit (and only his second climb on the stuff). There's loads..." 07/Jun

    The Count
    "Looks from the votes and comments that this doesn't start with a V5 boulder prob..." 24/Apr

    The Left Unconquerable
    "did this after 2 hours of bouldering so felt pumpy and got more tired from placi..." 07/Sep top50

    Symbiosis
    "Reading Bob's mention of "heart flutter" took me back to when I did th..." 10/Aug

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