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STANAGE PLANTATION

[The Unconquerables, 7 kb]The magical arena of the Plantation Area marks the beginning of the more continuous section of the climbing. Here the cliff reaches its greatest height on the Tower Face and the whole section is littered with great routes across the grades. It is also one of the most popular bouldering spots around particularly the jumble below Goliath\'s Groove, and the blocks below Paradise Wall.

Photo: The Unconquerables © ROCKFAX

ROUTES

288 trad routes (M...E8)
20 boulder problems (V0+...V11)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Count's Buttress
Below the gap in the edge, where the Long Causeway links the Hope Valley with Sheffield, is the...
30 trad afternoon sun uphill
15 mins
windy126
D.I.Y. and Surprise
A short face of lovely rock, though sadly with only a small collection of routes. Technicians who...
19 trad afternoon sun uphill
15 mins
windy128
Outlook Buttress
Above the upper section of flagged path that runs from the Plantation car park to Stanage Pole, is...
13 trad afternoon sun uphill
12 mins
windy130
Fern Crack
To the left of the slumped slab of Wall End is a fine tall buttress tucked away in the back of a...
14 trad afternoon sun uphill
15 mins
windy131
Wall End Slab Area
An attractive slumped slab of rock with its eponymous venerable classic and some more recent...
9 trad afternoon sun uphill
12 mins
windy132
Goliath's Groove
An attractive series of aretes and walls that include some of the very best offerings on the whole...
22 trad afternoon sun uphill
10 mins
windy134
NTBTA Bouldering
The blocks below the edge are one of the most popular bouldering spots in the Peak District. The...
15 boulder afternoon sun uphill
10 mins
windy137
Satin
A collection of short buttresses squeezed between the ever-popular and more imposing venues of...
14 trad afternoon sun uphill
10 mins
windy138
Tower Face Area
The tallest wall on the cliff with routes to match. Tower Face Direct and Flight of Ideas are great...
24 trad afternoon sun uphill
10 mins
windy140
The Strangler
A pair of secluded slabs with a set of hard face routes as well as a short Upper Tier which has a...
17 trad afternoon sun uphill
10 mins
windy142
Hathersage Trip
A secluded wall with a couple of hard face routes, as well as a variety of easier stuff, including...
15 trad afternoon sun uphill
10 mins
windy143
Pegasus Wall Area
On the left is the tall block with the desperate route of Unfamiliar up its front edge. This was...
16 trad afternoon sun uphill
10 mins
windy144
Paradise Wall
A popular area with a good collection of routes in the Orange Spot zone, including some classic...
10 trad afternoon sun uphill
10 mins
windy145
Millsom's Minion
A fine companion to Paradise Wall. Good for HVS to E3 routes offering hard starts on steep pocketed...
13 trad afternoon sun uphill
10 mins
windy146
Straight Ahead
A couple of contrasting areas, a tiny slab with two technical outings, and a taller, more complex...
12 trad afternoon sun uphill
15 mins
windy147
Wall Buttress
A fine piece of rock where Namenlos and Wall Buttress are popular ticks. The other climbs here see...
12 trad afternoon sun uphill
12 mins
windy148
Calvary
A fine buttress with one of Stanage's finest routes: Calvary. With modern gear it should be safe...
13 trad afternoon sun uphill
12 mins
windy150
The Unconquerables
Home to a trio of classic cracks including the peerless pitch of The Right Unconquerable, one of...
7 trad afternoon sun uphill
12 mins
windy151
Away from it All
Between the ever-popular Unconquerables and Dover's Wall is a series of short buttresses that have...
33 trad afternoon sun uphill
15 mins
windy152
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Latest Comments
STANAGE PLANTATION
Symbiosis
"Reading Bob's mention of "heart flutter" took me back to when I did th..." 10/Aug

Fern Crack
"This is probably on the upper limit of VS. I found all the sections hard - 4c al..." 09/Aug

Pool Wall
"I wonderful micro route on fantastic rock, one of my favourites at the grade. Th..." 01/Aug

Fern Crack
"Did this and Right Unconquerable on the same day. Found both okay, but this one ..." 07/Jun

Tom-cat Slab
"Quality, could do with a few more ascents to remove lichen" 22/May

Ritornel
"Some 5a! Maybe for the tall it's only hard 5a?" 21/May

Big Screams
"V2/5c starting moves, at a safe height, then 4c/4b climbing with admittedly dubi..." 15/May

Monday Blue
"I know it's escapable, but I think this is a great arete climb, it feels totally..." 18/Apr

Black and Decker
"Desperate start and can reach the ledge from undercut without using the pocket" 12/Apr

Paradise Arete
"led this in 03 (see above)and thought it was worth 5a, led it again yesterday (a..." 11/Apr

Silk
"Snowball font 6c? A classic of the genre!" 29/Jan

Black and Decker
"Agree with Nai - the start is fairly hard, but not especially reachy." 27/Nov

Black and Decker
"I had no problems starting this despite being well short of 6ft. The reach for ..." 18/Nov

Dream Boat
"A good route with climbing as good as Daydreamer. One particularly thin pull on..." 11/Nov

Outlook Crack
"Short lived, and quite low in the grade. Shame its not a bit longer as the moves..." 28/Oct

Mother's Day
"This is a brute. I like fist jamming, but couldn't get up it. Anyone done it?" 23/Oct

Curving Buttress
"A good route if done logically. The original route went direct up the arete but ..." 19/Oct

Goliath's Groove
"Grade creep? Maybe not - the 1950s guidebook graded it 'Exceedingly Severe' and ..." 12/Oct

Walking the Whippet
"I voted for easy E3 for this route... but don't let that encourage you too much...." 01/Oct

Scoop and Corner
"The rib is simplicity itself, but for us total novices the balancy scoop towards..." 04/Sep

Wall End Slab
"Found it a most enjoyable route with adequate gear, although you need cams. The..." 28/Aug

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