Fisherman’s Ledge is one of the most popular and important areas at Swanage. There is a wide variety of climbing to be found including deep water solos, big trad routes, scary headpoints and bolted roof climbs. For the deep water soloist, Fisherman’s Ledge (or Conner Cove as it is also known) is the place to be at the height of summer. Armed with only a beach towel and a supply of old boots and chalk bags, the climber can tackle some crazy solos or pull off an amazing 20m swallow dive. The main soloing areas are the Funky Wall and the Conger Cave. The trad climbing of the Squid and Limited Edition Areas offers another attraction. Hereabouts are some classic routes that follow impressive lines above a solid and accessible platform. Further on is the awesome Palace of the Brine, home to some of the best and most spectacular roof climbing around. On the middle walls of Conner Cove are a series of high standard and often very bold trad routes - thin moves with minimal gear and without any deep water below. The rock is heavily weathered and yields some amazing pockets and gritstone-style slopers in places. On the whole, the finishes tend to be more solid than nearby cliffs which is very welcome if you are soloing or headpointing.
Routes
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97 trad routes (D...E7) 5 sport routes (7c+...8b) 3 dws routes (E4...E5) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents | |||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| Rufty Tufty Area This buttress has disappeared into the sea, but has been replaced by the New Dawn Wall! |
7 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Up and down 40 mins |
Abseil Windy | - |
| The Funky Wall The western end of Fisherman's Ledge is a sheer wall of superb rock that drops straight into the... |
10 | DWS |
Lots of sun! |
Up and down 40 mins |
Abseil Windy | 339 |
| Funky Wall - Right There are no deep water solos on this section of the cliff, it is back to trad lines on excellent... |
9 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Up and down 40 mins |
Abseil Windy | 340 |
| New Dawn Area This section of cliff suffered a massive rockfall in 2009 and has had a number of new routes added. |
7 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Up and down 40 mins |
Abseil Windy | 341 |
| Armed Insurgence Area A rarely travelled wall covered with some fairly hard trad routes and a trio of DWSs on its... |
16 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Up and down 40 mins |
Abseil Windy | 342 |
| The Conger Area The Conger Cave Area is the show-piece of all the deep water soloing venues in Dorset. The majority... |
20 | DWS |
Lots of sun! |
Up and down 40 mins |
Abseil Windy | 344 |
| Squid Area This area is often ignored in favour of its more illustrious neighbours but it contains a good set... |
15 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Up and down 40 mins |
Abseil Windy | 346 |
| Vigilante Area The right-hand end of the Squid Area has a couple of huge boulders on the platform. The wall above... |
6 | Trad |
Sun and shade |
Up and down 0 mins |
Windy | 348 |
| Palace of the Brine Area A massive cave that is home to some of the biggest and hardest overhangs around. Good conditions... |
15 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Up and down 40 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy | 348 |
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