FISHERMAN'S LEDGE


Fisherman’s Ledge is one of the most popular and important areas at Swanage. There is a wide variety of climbing to be found including deep water solos, big trad routes, scary headpoints and bolted roof climbs. For the deep water soloist, Fisherman’s Ledge (or Conner Cove as it is also known) is the place to be at the height of summer. Armed with only a beach towel and a supply of old boots and chalk bags, the climber can tackle some crazy solos or pull off an amazing 20m swallow dive. The main soloing areas are the Funky Wall and the Conger Cave. The trad climbing of the Squid and Limited Edition Areas offers another attraction. Hereabouts are some classic routes that follow impressive lines above a solid and accessible platform. Further on is the awesome Palace of the Brine, home to some of the best and most spectacular roof climbing around. On the middle walls of Conner Cove are a series of high standard and often very bold trad routes - thin moves with minimal gear and without any deep water below. The rock is heavily weathered and yields some amazing pockets and gritstone-style slopers in places. On the whole, the finishes tend to be more solid than nearby cliffs which is very welcome if you are soloing or headpointing.

Routes

97 trad routes (D...E7)
5 sport routes (7c+...8b)
3 dws routes (E4...E5)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Rufty Tufty Area
This buttress has disappeared into the sea, but has been replaced by the New Dawn Wall!
7
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and down

40 mins

Abseil
-
The Funky Wall
The western end of Fisherman's Ledge is a sheer wall of superb rock that drops straight into the...
10
DWS
Lots of sun!
Up and down

40 mins

Abseil
339
Funky Wall - Right
There are no deep water solos on this section of the cliff, it is back to trad lines on excellent...
9
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and down

40 mins

Abseil
340
New Dawn Area
This section of cliff suffered a massive rockfall in 2009 and has had a number of new routes added.
7
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and down

40 mins

Abseil
341
Armed Insurgence Area
A rarely travelled wall covered with some fairly hard trad routes and a trio of DWSs on its...
16
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and down

40 mins

Abseil
342
The Conger Area
The Conger Cave Area is the show-piece of all the deep water soloing venues in Dorset. The majority...
20
DWS
Lots of sun!
Up and down

40 mins

Abseil
344
Squid Area
This area is often ignored in favour of its more illustrious neighbours but it contains a good set...
15
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and down

40 mins

Abseil
346
Vigilante Area
The right-hand end of the Squid Area has a couple of huge boulders on the platform. The wall above...
6
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and down

0 mins

348
Palace of the Brine Area
A massive cave that is home to some of the biggest and hardest overhangs around. Good conditions...
15
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and down

40 mins

Abseil
Tidal
348
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  • Latest Comments

    For FISHERMAN'S LEDGE

    Damage Case
    "it took me 3 trips to get to the right spot for the abseil in for the routes off..." 07/May

    Paternoster
    "Found this quite stiff." 29/Jan

    Damage Case
    "a nasty start, followed by a lovely top section; harder but not as good as Calci..." 22/Jul

    Calcitron
    "Possible new route up the wall to the right of Calcitron at about E3 5c. More in..." 25/Apr

    Gorillas in the Mist
    "Threads replaced (June 09) though would only really trust the one at the bottom ..." 29/Jun

    Palace of the Brine
    "rebolted with shiny new glue ins. there is also another bolt line in this cave t..." 13/Jun

    Sue's Route
    "Nice route. OK at the grade I thought." 19/Apr

    Rufty Tufty
    "The entire Rufty Tufty area has collapsed removing the big roof and all the rock..." 13/Apr

    Gorillas in the Mist
    "superb route, s stars for sure. The threads are a in a poor state at the moment..." 16/Mar

    Limited Edition
    "On a repeat ascent using the new start (well, up the crack between the original ..." 08/Mar

    End of the Innocence
    "Almost this entire page of the guide book has fallen off into the sea. Infact o..." 09/Jun

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