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DANCING LEDGE

The most popular cliff at Swanage. A sport climbing quarry and some steeper routes on the sea-level roofs. Easy access and non-tidal. Often busy and popular with beginners.

ROUTES

1 trad route (E4)
70 sport routes (5+...8a)
2 boulder problems (V4...V7)
8 dws routes (4+...7b)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
-^^^

Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Main Quarry Left
The left side of the Main Quarry is a very popular place that has some great little pitches. The...
15 sport sun to mid-afternoon up+down
25 mins
220
Main Quarry Centre
More good little pitches in the mid-grades, and once again on some good rock.
15 sport lots of sun! up+down
25 mins
222
Main Quarry Right
The overhang-strewn righthand side of the quarry has a number of excellent and powerful routes.
20 sport lots of sun! up+down
25 mins
223
Graveyard Area
Hidden away under the west end of the quarry are two very eerie caves containing layers of tiered...
7 sport lots of sun! up+down
25 mins
abseilwindy224
Bust Ya' Boiler Area
This steep section of roofs gives some great traverse pitches which can be climbed at any tide...
8 sport lots of sun! up+down
25 mins
abseilwindy225
Mexican Wave Area
The next six climbs offer a fine venue for muscle junkies who like a bit of air beneath their feet....
7 sport lots of sun! up+down
25 mins
windy226
Hieronymous Area
The next set of routes are on the face to the east of the quarry. The first few can be reached from...
9 sport lots of sun! up+down
25 mins
abseilwindy227
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Latest Comments
DANCING LEDGE
Shinhead Clash
"The bolt holes and some glue are visible where the 2nd bolt used to be. Possibly..." 08/Jul

Shinhead Clash
"June 2010 - 2nd bolt missing" 25/Jun

John Craven's Willy Warmer
"Good value at 5+, pleasant climbing on a strong natural line" 08/Oct

Slopin' and Hopin'
"done on very hot august day, felt very hard and mage pumpy! very good tho!" 31/Aug

Sea of Holes
"There has been a slight mudslide at the top of this route - take a helmet!" 12/Jul

Borra Ring
"went to climb this one and found the rock really greasy, couldnt get to the seco..." 27/May

Slave to the Cave
"Now rebolted." 11/Oct

Fat Chance Hotel
"Was completely lost on first attempt and then I realised I had to pull harder. ..." 22/Sep

Squalid Walid and the Druze Blues
"Looked like a necky lead. I found the hard part getting onto the slab near the l..." 22/Aug

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