The most popular cliff at Swanage. A sport climbing quarry and some steeper routes on the sea-level roofs. Easy access and non-tidal. Often busy and popular with beginners.

ROUTES

1 trad route (E4) 70 sport routes (5+...8a) 2 boulder problems (V4...V7) 8 dws routes (4+...7b) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents

Buttress (click for routes)	No. of Routes	Route Type	Sunshine or shade	Approach walk	Other	Page
Main Quarry Left The left side of the Main Quarry is a very popular place that has some great little pitches. The...	15			25 mins		220
Main Quarry Centre More good little pitches in the mid-grades, and once again on some good rock.	15			25 mins		222
Main Quarry Right The overhang-strewn righthand side of the quarry has a number of excellent and powerful routes.	20			25 mins		223
Graveyard Area Hidden away under the west end of the quarry are two very eerie caves containing layers of tiered...	7			25 mins		224
Bust Ya' Boiler Area This steep section of roofs gives some great traverse pitches which can be climbed at any tide...	8			25 mins		225
Mexican Wave Area The next six climbs offer a fine venue for muscle junkies who like a bit of air beneath their feet....	7			25 mins		226
Hieronymous Area The next set of routes are on the face to the east of the quarry. The first few can be reached from...	9			25 mins		227
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Shinhead Clash
"June 2010 - 2nd bolt missing" 25/Jun

John Craven's Willy Warmer
"Good value at 5+, pleasant climbing on a strong natural line" 08/Oct

Slopin' and Hopin'
"done on very hot august day, felt very hard and mage pumpy! very good tho!" 31/Aug

Sea of Holes
"There has been a slight mudslide at the top of this route - take a helmet!" 12/Jul

Borra Ring
"went to climb this one and found the rock really greasy, couldnt get to the seco..." 27/May

Slave to the Cave
"Now rebolted." 11/Oct

Fat Chance Hotel
"Was completely lost on first attempt and then I realised I had to pull harder. ..." 22/Sep

Squalid Walid and the Druze Blues
"Looked like a necky lead. I found the hard part getting onto the slab near the l..." 22/Aug

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