DANCING LEDGE


The most popular cliff at Swanage. A sport climbing quarry and some steeper routes on the sea-level roofs. Easy access and non-tidal. Often busy and popular with beginners.

Routes

2 trad routes (E4...7c)
82 sport routes (5c...7c+)
2 boulder problems (V4 6B...V7 7A+)
1 dws route (4c)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
The Quarry - Left
The left side of The Quarry is split into two walls of compact, steep rock that see quite a lot of...
15
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and down

25 mins

Dry in the Rain
sheltered
The Quarry - Centre
This section of the quarried wall is open, well drained and offers up a good array of mid-grade...
17
Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and down

25 mins

sheltered
The Quarry - Right
The overhang strewn right-hand side of the quarry has a number of excellent and powerful routes, a...
21
Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and down

25 mins

Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Graveyard Area
Hidden away under the west end of the quarry are two very eerie caves containing layers of tiered...
9
Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and down

25 mins

Abseil
Bust Ya' Boiler Area
This steep section of roofs gives some great traverse pitches which can be climbed at any tide...
9
Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and down

25 mins

Abseil
Mexican Wave Area
The clutch of climbs on the Mexican Wave offer a fine venue for muscle junkies who like a bit of...
7
Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and down

25 mins

Hieronymous GBH Area
The next set of routes is on the face to the east of the quarry. The first few can be reached from...
9
Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and down

25 mins

Abseil
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  • Latest Comments

    For DANCING LEDGE

    Hiccup
    "Crimpy stuff followed by juggy stuff. Much better than the description suggests...." 17/May

    Skinhead Clash
    "Second bolt replaced." 23/Mar

    Daylight Robbery
    "Climbing it this weekend, I pulled the big horn off at the end of the crux secti..." 31/Jan

    John Craven's Willy Warmer
    "Above the bulge, 1m before the lower off, the flake you may grab to pull onto th..." 23/Oct

    Sugar Ray
    "an excellent little power endurance sprint. cool moves with no real rest." 13/Sep

    Skinhead Clash
    "The bolt holes and some glue are visible where the 2nd bolt used to be. Possibly..." 08/Jul

    Skinhead Clash
    "June 2010 - 2nd bolt missing" 25/Jun

    John Craven's Willy Warmer
    "Good value at 5+, pleasant climbing on a strong natural line" 08/Oct

    Slopin' and Hopin'
    "done on very hot august day, felt very hard and mage pumpy! very good tho!" 31/Aug

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