HEDBURY


The Hedbury and Smokey Hole area encompasses four very different crags to the west of Dancing Ledge. The main interest for most climbers will be Hedbury Quarry which is like a more compact version of the main quarry at Dancing Ledge with similar style routes but it is usually much quieter. The rock here is steep and solid and dotted with some strange flowstone holds. It is a good place for an afternoon’s sport climbing in winter, getting lots of sun and located away from the sea. Just around the corner from Hedbury Quarry, and in complete contrast, is the immense Hedbury Big Cove. Huge leaning walls, massive overhangs, slightly unstable rock and big grade trad routes make this a place for maximum intimidation and atmosphere - and all this straight above the sea. Smokey Hole, on the other hand, is more solid and less steep than The Big Cove but has a similar set of high quality, high grade trad routes in a sensational setting. Most of the routes in the Big Cove and Smokey Hole have had few repeats but their position as some of the most demanding challenges at Swanage is assured and they certainly deserve more traffic. Topmast Quarry has three steep and sheltered sport routes.

Routes

11 trad routes (E2...E7)
30 sport routes (1...7c)
5 dws routes (5a...6b+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
The Quarry
A popular section of the quarry with some easier lines and a handful of tougher pitches on...
27
DWS
Afternoon sun
Up and down

30 mins

sheltered
The Big Cove
This is a very intimidating cliff with huge, overhanging routes on often-suspect rock. The routes...
7
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and down

30 mins

Restricted Access
Smokey Hole
A huge leaning wall of good rock with routes to match those on the Lean Machine face. It is hidden...
9
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and down

30 mins

Abseil
Restricted Access
Topmast Quarry
This small quarry has a set of short and powerful lines that are very well sheltered from the...
3
Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and down

30 mins

Abseil
Restricted Access
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  • Latest Comments

    For HEDBURY

    Sea View
    "Lovely climb with a beautiful view. Loose rock everywhere adds to the fun. Anch..." 27/May

    Sea View
    "the natural hold just below second bolt from top is a loose - not a problem as t..." 12/Mar

    Of Mice and Men
    "really hard getting out over the corner, i think alot of balance is needed for t..." 06/Feb

    Glue Crux Clan
    "Line in the book finishes very direct from last bolt but there's no way at this ..." 25/Sep

    Sexy Beast
    "A burly start followed by more delicate stuff above. Great fun." 17/May

    Sea View
    "The finish is indeed tough, sort of surprising after the easy start." 11/Sep

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