A superb set of roof climbs and also another great deep water solo venue. Currently has serious access problems and no climbing is allowed.

Photo: Lover's Leap (7a+) Dancing Ledge, Swanage © Mark Glaister

ROUTES

1 trad route (E4) 43 sport routes (4+...8a) 38 dws routes (E2...8a) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents

Buttress (click for routes)	No. of Routes	Route Type	Sunshine or shade	Approach walk	Other	Page
Durdle Door The famous natural arch of Durdle Door has some fine well-bolted sport routes. They are situated on...	5			10 mins	No access allowed	181
Dungy Head/Church Rock A high ridge of steep pinnacles (Dungy Head) and huge boulder on the sea shore known as Church...	14			10 mins	No access allowed	182
Laws Traverse Area Some traverses on the right-hand side of Stair Hole Cove.	4			10 mins	No access allowed	184
Stair Hole West The west cave is somewhat overshadowed by its neighbour but still offers some fine routes in a...	12			10 mins	No access allowed	185
Inner West Cave The inner cave can be hard to find in good condition, but is a great venue when it dries out,...	8			5 mins		-
Stair Hole East This is a major venue packed with some brilliant steep pitches on magnificent rock. Some of the...	24			10 mins	No access allowed	186
Amphitheatre Roofs This roof playground gives similar routes to those at Stair Hole only steeper and shorter. The rock...	15			15 mins	No access allowed	188
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Gates of Greyskull
"Helpful block at start of Gates has disappeared into sea, makes first move sligh..." 07/Jun

Horny Lil' Devil
"I thought it was on the other side of the arch....whoops" 29/Jun

Gates of Greyskull
"There is a great alternitive start that can be done, "Skullthugery" 7c..." 28/Jun

Cheddar Direct
"On reflection (looked at this on Sunday), you would probably miss the ledges in ..." 03/Jun

Cheddar Direct
"S1 I think not. Very Serious over large ledges, loose rock and the upper slab w..." 02/Jun

Cheddar Direct
"Water below? Surely some mistake - a fall would very probably land you on proje..." 25/Sep

Adrenochrome
"Sorry Rich, i thought i had read somewhere that you had, my mistake. It was a go..." 14/Sep

Adrenochrome
"Hi there, I practiced it on a rope, but I didnt redpoint it. Rich." 14/Sep

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